May 11th Alcaracejos to Merida

Alcaracejos to Mérida

May the 11th Alcaracejos to Hinojosa

You may think all my time over the last few days was laying in bed resting and having fun drinking wine and coffee, chuckle. Let me tell you that the tent when I unrolled it on arriving was still wet and my room had been draped from window to TV, entrance door and bathroom with the inner tent and it's flysheet most of the Sunday afternoon! I had to keep the balcony doors half open to let air in to dry them and the shutters down to stop the rain coming in! I also had too find enough room for my still wet river washing, rinse out more socks and pants plus shower myself! When the tent was dry I had to roll the thing up, quite a task in a small room with no floor space. With that done I managed to finish drying the rest on the balcony between showers. So you see with all that and the things I have told you about over those two days it was a wonder that I felt bright and keen to get on the road on Tuesday morning! But I did and set off at about 7am on a cold cloudy morning.




The first look at the track was not encouraging. I had to weave my way around the morass of puddles. The trolley and its contents soon got muddy but no real problem as I had put most things in plastic bags so they kept clean. The loss of weight from my bag made a difference but it was still quite heavy! I found myself singing and so must have been feeling better and optimistic. The first four kilometres went well although poorly marked at first, it was for the most part marked!.


I entered Villanueva del Duque and stopped for a moment to take a photo of the 15th century church.



Then past the Ayuntamiento

and on and found the Bar Rancho Grande, and went in.





It was very busy with local men all drinking their breakfast! I was soon welcomed, and drinking a tea, I told them my quest to reach Santiago and was soon invited to partake in a brandy to warm up a cold morning. I then tried to buy one back! The girl poured one more for me and the men I was talking too! The chap on my left swilled it down slapped a couple of Euros on the table and shook my hand, slapped me on the back and left. I decided to pay before this stop becomes my last. When I asked for my bill the barmaid said I only had the tea to pay for as the rest was paid for by the chap who had just left! What could I do, I knew if I stayed here much longer I would be on my knees before long. I thanked those around me and was wished a safe journey by all the bar and I went out! I almost started off wrong here as in my merry state I at first misread the directions and started to take the left road. Not, as it said, leaving the stone cross on my left! Luckily I saw no arrow so I read the book again and bingo! I crossed to the other road!

Soon lush green fields and rolling country with knurled old trees scattered over it were on either side of the muddy farm track I walked.

Some dead but looked alive!

















Occasionally I passed a small cattle farm and it's outbuildings. I plodded on. My book said take a left track, I'm lucky, I did and found the stream was passable, but I had to remove my boots, socks, and zip off the lower legs of my trousers. I put on my flip flop sandals and carried the bag across first, then went back for the trolley and replaced my walking gear! The track now changed, and was not so muddy and better for me, I love poppies and I remember a picture of them Mari sent me as I took a photo of them. Now rock-roses and holm oaks and less fences. I felt I was going deeper into the countryside.

































A small village Fuente la Lancha was reached and I snapped a photo but no bar or shop here.












I crossed a road and took a difficult overgrown track at the end of a field. For this next part my book was not clear! The track seemed to go on for miles!

Tiny frogs were all over the path and my trolley wheels passed many to the frog heaven above, there was so many of the little creatures.

















On a better track now I came to a flooded stream that had backed up into the farm track. I tried it first with nothing on my back to about halfway and back. I decided I could try crossing with my boots on if I went down this side. First I would take the rucksack using my sticks then come back for the trolley. My boots did get into some water but as I pulled them out of it quickly and onto the next tuft of grass I got away with it to the other side. Here I dumped my bag and went back for the rest. The two sticks had helped me balance with the rucksack, now with the heavy trolley in the left hand only, it was not so good. My feet, on crossing the worse bit, sank deeper and I was slower getting them out. By the time I reached the other side my feet were soaking! I took off the boots, wrung out the socks and set off again.



Some distance on I came to a picnic area and the small Erminita de la Virgen de Guia! Nearby I found a large shelter with a stage inside but it was open on all sides and cold. I settled myself into the most sheltered corner and took off my boots and wrung out my socks again. The drizzle I had been suffering on and off all morning had just stopped again and a feeble sun now shone. I stuffed toilet roll in the boots but I could not afford to use to much, (A soft roll from home was gold dust to me chuckle!) I put on my sandals and dry socks, put the trolley in the doorway on the sunny side and I draped my wet socks over it, and propped the boots up to get as much sun as possible. Putting my cape as a pillow I sat on the cold tile bench that ran all the way round and ate what bread I had with Mari's superb ham slices. 'No stove so no coffee today' I realise as I drunk my cold water!
A couple cars pulled in and their occupants got out but none spoke to me. Never mind after a while I packed up my gear, put my wet socks on the back, put my boots on and wandered out onto the road and set off towards the town. (I might have gone wrong here! I have no photos of this part and don't remember if I took the track to my left in 500 mt as mentioned in the book, or the road.) I think I would have followed the road into town because as I came into it I remember I could not make much sense of my written directions. I found the fountain (Fuente de Pila de Llanos) although no name as far as I could see. The problem was I could find no roads out from here, that were mentioned in the book.
I walked down the widest street and I found a bar on a corner and decided to ask! A lady was walking towards me so I asked her for the directions to the town centre as I pulled my cape off! She looked at this cape-clad peregrino with feathers in his hat, put her nose in the air and deliberately snubbed me! Stunned and tired I replied!
"Ok be like that, and a good day to you too!"
I then felt guilty! It had happened so very few times on camino, and who knows perhaps she had been stopped and robbed like I had once in Barcelona!
I dragged my trolley and bag up the step and into the bar and parked it out of the way, hung the cape and hat on the lot and ordered ("una con leche grande"). It was crowded and I was now the centre of attention. It' was all men, and it was not the same reception that I had in that little bar this morning. I felt they were puzzled by me and had not heard of the camino, 'a scruffy tramp maybe!' Still the coffee was good and they warmed to me more as, without being asked, as speaking to no one in particular, I told them what I was doing and asked for directions to an albergue.
"No idea. I think you had better go to the Ayuntamiento and ask there," said one
"Bueno y donde es esto? I replied.

I tried to remember their directions as I left and went down the street! It turned out to be a long way, almost the other side of town and I discovered this was the older part with quite busy narrow cobbled streets. I entered the big square (Plaza de San Juan). The impressive church on the far side I read is known as Catedral de la Sierra.



The town hall opposite was open but no one about at the reception desk. I called out but it took time for someone to come down the stairs and after a big discussion with colleagues it was decided I had to see the police and a phone call was made. I sat down and waited for a while. A police car pulled up in the square and a policeman came across and I was invited into his office. He stamped my credential. I'm told I have to find the Sports stadium and am given a key, a town map with directions to find it, and am told to see a man there at 6pm.
"If this office is closed return the key to the bar in the corner of the square in the morning, don’t forget!" He finally stated firmly!
The stadium was right back across town again on the outskirts where I came in!
I draged my bag back to the other side of town and found it two or three streets from the fountain! Everything was bolted and barred with big high wrought iron gates. I tried the key in several locks to no avail. I was about to give up when an old man, crossed the street and asked me what was the problem. I told him how I hoped to sleep here tonight and had been told the key would let me in!
"Try it in the door in the next entrance" he said pointing right!
Sure enough, hidden by the tall hedge, down the street was another entrance with its gates open! The key fitted the glass door of the building and I went into a huge sports stadium! I had a look around. The big area was a cold prospect for a bedroom, rows of seats down one side with a rail, the floor had a hard rubber surface and basket ball a net at each end. High up on the left hand side a large steel grill let in the cold and sparrows. There were well worn toilets and showers at the far end off a passageway but not much else, I went to the end of the hall and placed my sleeping sack and bag there near the toilets. took a photo, I would go out to see what the town had to offer. I had forgotten the time, siesta, all was closed as I walked all the way back to the square, and took a few more photos.











I chatted to some mothers outside the church and tried to get a look inside but they were preparing for a confirmation and were only using a small part and would not let me inside.


What do I do with myself now I am here? I think to myself, I could, while I'm at this end of town, see where the arrows go for the morning! It took a while and as normal my directions were not clear, I passed a big monastery as stated, but that was also closed.
I found the next street that I would want tomorrow went down that, then had problems with street names. I saw one lady in the street and she told me to take a right and although this wasn't signed, assured me this was the camino road. I thought I'd find the rest in the morning and returned. Nearly back, I came to the first bar that I had found. It was open so I stopped for a coffee. One or two of the same men here spoke to me but there was nothing to eat! I finished my coffee and went back to the stadium. I made a bocadillo with stale bread. Shortly after a man came in with a young lad and I was told I could leave my gear in a locked room by the toilets, and could sleep there. He gave me a mattress that I put on top of three bench seats and tried to rest but a whole lot of ladies came into the main hall and now music blared as they danced to a weight loss program disc!!! I wasn’t going to get much rest yet. I stuck it out for an hour and a half or more but in the end got up and left. I walked to a main road this time as it was getting dark. When I neared a petrol station, I saw a restaurant open but empty, but two ladies I asked said it was good. I was very hungry but hardly able to keep my eyes open by now. I went in and ordered (escalope de tenería) and was, after a while, presented with a fresh cooked very big and nice meal, accompanied by a good house wine. I ate half the meat and the chips but I was too tired to finish so asked the waiter to wrap it for me for tomorrow's lunch. I chose a sweet, ate it and paid. I now had to walk all the way back in the dark hoping I remembered the way! I did, and let myself into my charming but now quiet bedroom and slept!


May the 12th
Hinojosa to Monterrubio

I left at 7am after putting back the benches where I had found them. I had no breakfast but I drank half a lt of milk and a crust of bread hoping I might find a bar with something to eat. I walked into town, where I found the bar in the square that I was supposed to return the key too, just as it was just opening its doors. I unloaded and sat on a barstool and waited to be served. The barman finished his chores and I gave him the key and ordered a coffee and asked if there was chance of a tostada or a croissant there was nothing! A rather plump policeman came in and ordered a cognac then another, I said quietly to the barman when he came over to me
'Is that a normal breakfast here?"
"Si señor" he smiled then whispered "o una orujo!
With a bit of trouble I found the way out of town and on to the ring road passing the slaughterhouse it mentioned. I turned of onto a track as it said in the book. I could have taken the road for a while but it was too late by the time I realised.














Later I passed a farm with peacocks and here had to turn left and cross a stream that I had to cross in the normal way and took a photo.

































I walked a good number of kilometres till I came to a road, which I chose to take and in a short while
















I came to a big main road that would have taken me into Monterrubio without getting my feet wet in the river I could see it crossed. I looked at the mud map again. There were blue biro lines that the chap in Cordoba had put on that said I should now just cross this road and take a track opposite. I could see a big white building on the hill a couple of kilometres to the left on the other side of the river bridge. That must be the ermita marked on the map, I noted. I decided there must be a good reason for taking the marked track here! I crossed the road and took the rough track that followed the river for miles all the time going away from the bridge and the building. I then had to wade across the river as best I could! It wasn't too deep but took me some time to strip off my pants etc and dress again!
I now went through some big cattle gates and climbed up steeply over very rough country with no real clear track to follow. The marks seemed to have disappeared.



















Luckily I climbed up onto a rocky ridge that I thought might be better to pull my trolley on and saw an arrow painted on the rocky ground, sending me sharp right and over the hill. God knows where I would have finished up if I hadn't done that! Winding down again I went through some more big gates. I only think I'm right now but I see the ermita and the road in the distance in front of me. I decide that road is where I am going if I have any say in the matter. Eventually I did come down a track and onto that road, right near the ermita!















I was really tired now what with the rough going, the hill and no breakfast! The map said the track and road now ran parallel all the way some 9 kilometres into Monterrubio. It also said total kilometres were 31. I was sure that last bit must have added another 3kms! I decided 9kms on a road would be easier than 9kms on the track if it was like that last bit. I now put my rucksack on the trolley and the water I had left in the belt pockets. I think it might have been here that I used the towrope idea for the first time. I had found a piece of cord and I folded it in half tied it to the handle then 10 centimetres away tied a knot. I then took one end to the left and one to the right and, putting myself in the middle, I tied the ends together as a belt. I still had to pull a bit and guide it with my left hand but the body took a lot of the weight.










It helped a lot, it still turned over at times on rough tracks but on the road it worked very well. I pulled for some time but the village on the top of a hill in the distance seemed no closer! I stopped and took a mouthful of water when a car appeared and stopped by me. I presumed as the chap asked where was I going that he was offering me a lift and I was very tired and said if he would take me to the next village I would be thankful.
I'll call him Jo-I can't remember his name! He now asked how far that was and I quoted about six kms I think. He got out and stuffed my bag on top of a lot of sacks on the back seat.
"Food for horses" he explained. "I hope to set up rides for people that want to do the camino" he said "I need to set up rest places with good horse food, have you seen any places with horses?"
There had been a few in the field where he had stopped!
"I have seen very few on this trip, no other peregrinos either"
I also told him I had walked several caminos before but was having a few problems this time.
"Where are you from?"
"Australia" I said
He now spoke in English. He was quite a character and I was not quite sure how to take him, he was very outspoken and quick to criticise me, for instance, when I joked
"I'm very tired as I haven't had any breakfast today, as they seem to start the day on cognac here."
"Well that’s your fault you should have known that if you have been here before!"
For a man setting out to do a camino on horse or foot he should know shops are not necessarily open when you want them or when you pass through towns. Villages often have no shop! Even if they are open you can't always carry more weight! After all wasn't that why he was putting horse food drops on the way! Anyway we were soon in the little town of Monterrubio. He stopped the car in the town square at the top of a hill.
While I was getting my bag and stuff out the car, Jo crossed to the middle of the square and spoke to a well-dressed man. I didn't notice this man's white collar until later.
I shut the door, put on my hat and pulled the rucksack over to join them, thinking to thank him for my lift. He was busy talking so I waited patiently as he explained to the priest his pet project and that he was looking for a place that kept horses! The priest had been looking at me quizzingly with a puzzled frown on his face. Seeing the collar I didn't like to stare back so generally looked at Jo. Jo suddenly noticed me standing there! (I think he intended to introduce me, but probably forgot my name) anyway he points and says to the priest
"This err…….."
"Freak" injected the priest!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
"I gave a lift to when I stopped to look at some horses." Jo continued now with a silly grin.
Now I have looked in the Spanish dictionary and that word is not there, chuckle!
Still, it was the first time I have been called a freak to my face! Later, when we were eating in a restaurant on the corner of the square, Jo had to bring it up and even he said it was the first time he had heard a priest call someone a freak!
The food we ate was great and they had stayed open into siesta time just to serve us, as it was about 3.30 when we sat down. On finishing, we went into the bar for coffee and John went out to see if he could find someone! I paid for the meals and coffee and the total bill was only 18e. Jo came back in and asked for the bill but I told him I had paid. We finished our coffee and I saw Jo off and asked around how to find the priest as in the book it said accommodation was in the Parroquia.
First I was sent to a corner house near where we had met the priest. When that didn't work, I was told he lived in a house several streets away downhill, where I pushed the bell and a female voice asked me what I wanted. I tried to explain I was a peregrino looking for the priest. There was no answer and the intercom switched off so I waited for some ten or twelve minutes and still no one came down or said if I should wait on not! Jo happened to come by in his car and stopped and asked how I was doing and I said not very well, I seemed to be wasting my time and that I would go back and try asking in town again. I waved him off for the last time.
It must have been about 6 pm when I was back near the square again. This time I asked a chap sitting in a car and he sent me one street back from the corner house I had knocked at first. Obviously this was a different corner house! I knocked, and sure enough a lady came and she let me in, stamped my credential and told me the building was used to educate the children and there would be a class now but as soon as that finished I could come in and shower and sleep on the wooden stage. She gave me a door key and showed me where everything was. The children were arriving. I chatted to one mother with two children and two more koalas abandoned ship one also went to the nun to give to a child she thought might need it! The priest then arrived and told me where to leave the key in the morning. He seemed a very nice chap after all and I was able to tell him how I came to be with John and that it was the first time that I had ever accepted a lift and that I had walked 5 caminos before! He showed me where everything was again, there was even a pump up Lilo mattress in the hall cupboard. I thought it was great, it was cosy enough and the shower at the end of the entrance passage had hot water and was clean! I then left the kids singing and my gear in the hall cupboard and went for a cup of tea, a (te infusión.) Returning later I unlocked the door and let myself into the now empty house, and closed the door behind me. Having unpacked and sorted my stuff and set up my bed on the stage I took a shower and came out wrapped only in my tiny handkerchief of a towel and went into the room where my bed was set up. I started to look for my clean underpants to get dressed. Finding them I dropped my towel to pick them up when I heard a door open and a number of ladies talking! Probably thin walls, must be next door I thought. Suddenly I realised they were coming down this passageway! Crikey! The hall door into this room is half-open and I'm naked!!!!!
You know how when you're in a panic nothing goes right? Well you may also know feet that are not 100% dry, stick in clothes!
I got the underpants nearly up, then panicked and grabbed for my trousers, I balanced on one foot, then hopped onto the other. Nothing would go up! I was still fighting with my underpants and trousers as the door opened fully while I yelled,
"Espera, espera!"
My back was to the door, but as I looked over my shoulder I could see now some 7 or 8 middle-aged ladies were crowded in the open doorway!
"Ah! Perdona!" one lady giggled, slapping her hand over her mouth, not her eyes! Then everyone giggled! But I didn't see them rush to back out as I struggled to zip up my pants! No they moved, backwards out into the hall slowly, treading on each other's feet still giggling, while I struggled to put on my shirt!
It was the nun and the church choir! They'd come to practice she explained later, as a big wig of the church was coming to visit their church at the weekend! Anyway it was nice to hear them sing, I enjoyed it very much! But, did she forget to tell me they were coming or was this her way of getting a good laugh?



May the 13th
Monterrubio to Campanario

















I was pulling the rucksack on its wheels and going well on the tarmac coming out of town. I came onto the road to Castuera, that was 9kms over to my left somewhere.









Castuera was be the next village the book said. It was early, to my right the sun was still not up,













its golden orb just hidden by a line of mountains that ran parallel with the road but far away in the distance.




I took a look at the book and maps and read the description. I noticed how little traffic was about and I thought I could walk on that road fairly safely. The book said find a camino and another long day of 36kms/ or 9 hours. That’s 4kms an hour without a break! I'm pretty sure I could take the easiest way and stick on the road! Yes, I decided, the road it would be!







The first kms went well and at one point I took a photo looking back down the straight road. After the 9kms I walked into Castuera, this seemed a busy little town. Near the square I found a tourist office, and went in but there was no one at the desk. A chap in the adjoining office was helpful, let me leave my rucksack and gave me a Mozarabe hat badge and said come back later. I asked if there was an albergue, but he and those in the adjoining office didn't seem to know of one. I searched the town too but all I found was a hostel at 25e. I went back into the square again and collected my bag (still no one there). I found a nice bar, opposite and had a coffee and tostada. The barman was very pleasant and I got the flask filled with hot water for a coffee later and went to pay my bill. A really nice chap, a customer that I had been chatting to, insisted he pay my bill! I thanked him profusely, saying I would give the Santo a hug if I arrived there!


I left the bar found my way to the other side of town then turned right then left past an aeroplane monument on a road island and onto quite a busy road! I stayed on this for a very long way and at times it was quite dangerous.









There were a few places near the end that I could take a parallel track and did that when it looked as if I could keep pulling the rucksack on it.




















At last I saw a sign that said Campanerio town centre to the right. I turned on to this and traffic completely disappeared, as did the buildings! I walked some way before coming to a lonely traffic island with roads going of in all directions. All around looked like a proposed building estate! I walked round the island and at first couldn't see any relevant signs, in fact there were no signposts at all here except traffic island warning ones, then I spotted it, a small painted arrow on the back of one of these, way down one of the roads. This road now led me to the town, at first just a scattering of houses, then narrow streets. There was no one about and I kept going, taking what I thought looked the right direction and sometimes spotting an arrow! Coming to a junction with several outlets, I was puzzled where to go next. On seeing a man on one street I asked him did he know of the albergue.
"No sorry."
"Then can you tell me where is the centre of town and the ayuntamiento?" I asked
"I can help you there, follow me" he said and we set off together at a brisk pace!

It was good I had found him because I would never have found my way on my own. We wound our way through a maze of narrow streets, at last we came into a square that was packed with machines and workers ripping up the road and pavement! We managed to cross and he took me to the town hall but it was closed, as was the police station adjoining! Well! You could hardly call it a police station it was just a cramped office with a desk that filled the room! I was stumped as what to do but my friend said we should try asking in the bar next door!
While there I ordered coffees and cognacs and asked the barman and all the customers about the albergue! A big discussion ensured. The entire bar went out of their way to help me, some phoning numbers that I had in my map book. When that didn't help, they phoned friends they thought might know something! The police would know it was decided, but they could not be contacted either. Then somebody said the old train station was out of town. He thought that might be it, maybe I should go there, but its probably not open they said!

I was ushered out the bar by my first helper and he intended to walk all the way with me, even though the old train station was way out of town!
"No problem" he says.
Just as we were leaving the square, a police car drove up with two officers in it,
"Come on" my friend said hurrying across to them!
We now went back to the police office, where they unlocked the door and they squeezed behind the desk! I was asked what I wanted again and I confirmed my new friends story that I wanted the albergue if there was one, as I was a peregrino trying to walk to Santiago! They seemed to know what that was and asked for my passport and credential! One flicked through the passport then he stamped the credential. His colleague then phoned someone else! They prepared to leave, so I backed out of the door and down the steps to the pavement while one policeman locked up again. The other opens the car door, grabs my bag, dumps it on the back seat and I was told to get in the police car!!!! I hardly had time to thank my first helper! We whipped around the road works and down some narrow streets! The car screeched to a halt after nearly crashing into another car coming towards us! We then manoeuvred slowly by the other car and the policeman in the passenger seat wound down his window and spoke to the other driver firmly,
"This is a one way street and you shouldn't do that!" my kind policeman finished with, "Think yourself lucky, next time you will get a fine!"

We went off again and soon cleared town and were on a small country road. We passed a gravel turning to the right.
"That dirt track is the one you take in the morning" the policeman said as we shot by a yellow marker.
Shortly after, just before a railway crossing, we turned right onto gravel and stopped at large gates in a fence in front of a station building. We all got out and one guy used the phone again. "Won't be a minute" he says and a car pulls in with two young ladies in it. They unlock the gates as my policemen friends said goodbye to me and wished me luck on my journey! One girl took charge and I followed her up the steps as best I could with the trolley as she unlocked the door.

With the door open I walked into a super bar and restaurant that looked as if I was the first person to use it. It was cosy, yet quite large with high ceilings up to the rafters. Nice pictures on the walls, strong antique looking furniture, and a well stocked bar. I was amazed!






My attractive guide went to the far door that opened onto a large patio and states
"You sleep in the other building"
This I could see was more or less the same as this building from the outside. As we crossed the patio she pointed to the railway line,
" It's still used but the trains don’t stop anymore."
Pointing to the wide gap between the line and the patio-platform we are crossing she explains the gap,
"See, they took up the other rail!"
We went down to ground level again and alongside the other building. She opened the door and showed me how to lock it in the morning. We entered a huge cosy room filled with rich maroon drapes and similar coloured deep cushioned sofas and armchairs with elegant coffee tables and lamps! She now guided me to a staircase to the right and we went up. At the top of the stairs we turned down a long hallway towards a room at the end and as we passed the last doorway she pointed out the small but spotless bathroom. Entering the bedroom she says,
"I hope you will be comfortable here. This one has a nice balcony" pointing to a glass door on the far side.
The beds were like new and the bedding clean with matching covers on the two nice single beds, a big high chest of drawers and a small glass topped table and the bonus balcony! I remembered how just half an hour ago, I thought I might have been sleeping in the fields tonight!
"What time do you want to eat?" she asks.
"Would half past seven be ok as that would give me time to take a shower." I said
"Bueno, what ever time you like "
"If you should want anything just call we shall be in the bar" she said smiling!
I was dumbstruck! It would have cost a fortune to restore these two buildings, how they could ever make them pay I do not know, but who is complaining! I have it all to my self tonight! I unpacked and went into the shower. To my amazement the hot tap ran boiling hot!!! Although I seemed to remember the tap was on the wrong side, but who cares, I'm retired, I don't do pluming in Spain anymore, I chuckled to myself! I then took that welcome warm shower.
My only pair of long trousers were given a bit of a brush up and I put on a clean shirt and underclothes and washed out the dirty ones. It was threatening rain again so the nice patio could not be used to hang them to dry so I rigged up a line in the room and pinned them out as best I could. I was finished just in time for dinner!

I looked into the mirror, I still appeared pretty scruffy I thought as I tried to brush my hair a bit neater! I chuckled to myself as I thought 'Who the heck are you trying to impress!'



I went to the restaurant building and settled myself down at a table fairly near the bar. The girls were busy cleaning cutlery, and one lass seems to have an allergy or a rotten head cold. The other came over and asked what I would like to eat. I chose a soup to start and a fillet of veal with chips and a red house wine.
"Eggs with that?" she asked
"Buen, gracias!" thinking I'm going to eat well tonight! She set the table and brought the wine and bread.
The wine was a Rioja and very nice, the bread was lovely and crusty too!
'What could be better' I though as I sat back in comfortable surroundings sipping wine. 'This would be a great place to bring Maisie, she would love this! But then tomorrow will be another hard day, unfortunately that would definitely not appeal to her!" I realised.
My waitress come cook, brought my veal and chips. The large plate was piled high and topped with two eggs. At the time I had forgotten I had ordered soup for starters! As I finished the big plateful she came hurrying over apologising for not bringing the soup!
"It's all ready prepared. Would I like it now?" she sighed.
Well I was a hungry peregrino and what did it matter which order things came in
"Yes, why not" I chuckled "it would be a shame to waste it."
I was served the big plate of delicious soup followed by a yoghurt and ate the lot!!! Very full and my hunger satisfied I went up to the bar for a brandy and joined in conversation with the girls. Soon a young family came in, probably family of one of the young ladies I thought, come to see the Australian peregrino. They were very friendly. We all chatted and had drinks until I could hold my eyes open no longer! I paid my bill and I thanked them and wished them all a good night!
They really do deserve to do well. That bill was very reasonable considering how much I had eaten and how nice my room was' I thought as I snuggled down into my comfortable bed.
Not one train went through that night!


May the 14th
Campanario to Medellín

It was very cold as I left. I took off the sheep's wool padding pieces I had on my rucksack belt and stuffed them between my waistcoat and shirt and tied the small cotton red neck scarf under my chin. There was not much else I could do to combat the cold but I hoped I would warm up as I walked. The sun was up and casting golden fingers across the countryside as I turned left and pulled my rucksack down the dirt track my policeman friend had indicated. At the top of a rise I stopped and took a couple of photos.

Seeing an elderly man in front I hurried up a bit and chatted to him as we walked to a small hamlet where he left me. On my own again I crossed the railway line by a bridge and continued on its left past a small reservoir there crossing a small stream.



The track was good and wide and in the far distance I could see a village atop of a mount, one of the few visible hills in this gentle rolling countryside.

I used the cameras lens to bring it closer












I walked on in this direction for some two hours or more and passed the archaeological site.
I tried to see if it was possible to see anything worth while but you couldn't see in and the wire fence was too secure. I ate a crust of bread for sustenance but the cold wind, even though the sun shone, was bitter. The track went on for miles but on the whole that was not a problem. There was a few places more markers would have helped as it forked at a field and then left me in a rough area with no track! I picked up the rucksack now and I took a chance and headed off to the left, saw a marker then shortly over to my right I saw a small tarmac road and headed for that and jumped down the bank onto it.





Looking at my book I was supposed to find one and it said turn right so I did. I passed a number of ruins and I could see now the white village on the mount must be Magacela some 10 kms from the station, it said in my book and so it might have been by road,


































I was sure I had done more than that already. As I got closer the track passed through a very dilapidated village that was mostly built of mud bricks that were crumbling and roofs were collapsing. Some attempt had been made to save some, but in general all looked very sad. As I arrived at the base of the mount things looked a little more restored and there was a water fountain but it didn't look well kept so I passed it hoping as I went to find a baker's to get some bread and maybe buy water. There was a ring road around the base of the mount with the village of Magacela perched on the top. I asked a man on a corner but he said I had to climb the mount to the top for a baker's shop. Disheartened I looked at the steep road up, and I questioned him again, was he sure? I needed bread and water! The yellow arrows pointed to take the ring road but it seemed there was no choice but take the terrible steep road up! I was puffing and blowing after the first hundred meters. I stopped and asked a lady standing in her doorway, was that the only baker's, "Yes right at the top in the square" she assured me! Past a church and the road got steeper! Other narrow alleys joined this road and they were ever steeper! A bit further on and I asked again. "Take that road up to the top and it's on your left," she said pointing up one of these narrow steep alleys between the houses!
"Is there a bar? I'm going to need one after climbing up there" I asked.
"Yes, same place"
Several stops for breath later I see a beer sign - it must be a bar! I made one more determined effort only to find as I got there it was shut, and no bakers shop to be seen, I kept going and saw the narrow alley I was in is levelling out and looked to be going downhill slightly. One thing for sure I wasn't cold now, but I could see no square and was not quite at the summit. There was a van blocking the way ahead and I couldn't believe my eyes! What is it the man is unloading but large trays of bread!!!!
As I got nearer he was just about to get in and drive off. I shouted out to him,
"Can I buy bread!" He points to the left of the road and gets in and drives off. Closer now I realise he was pointing to a shop, a tiny super market.
I couldn't leave my bag outside as it would block the road if another delivery van came along. The street was that narrow! I got tangled in the beaded doorway and the shop lady left her counter to help me get untangled and then directs me left as I untie the last string! There were other customers but she asked me what I wanted first as she obviously didn't want me knocking everything for six in her tiny store! A couple of bananas, a loaf of bread, one tomato I think my order was. She hurried round collecting them and I stuffed them into my bag and was about to pay the bill when I spied yummy sugary cakes under her glass counter top.
"Oh, and a couple of those please" I call out as she punched out the bill!
Talk about rapid service chuckle, I think she gave me the cakes to get rid of me!
Once outside I untangled myself again from the beads and rearranged some of my packing and said to a lady, who was waiting to enter the shop,
"Que! That was a hard climb up for a loaf of bread."
"Oh the baker bakes the bread at the bottom of the hill! You must have passed his place. It's near the fountain, they would have sold you a loaf!!!!!"

The road now turned sharp left and down steeper than the way I had come up if that was possible! I came out onto the road where I had asked the way, about half way up. I got out my book and a woman asked where I was heading and I told her Haba, the next village I had marked. She pointed to a road in front of me and said take that, then left or you can continue up the hill here. She called out to another woman leaning out of a window watching and she confirmed it made no difference which I took! I thanked them and took the road in front as it went steeply down hill. But not for long. I found, as I came onto a busy main road cut into the side of the mount! I would have to go up hill. No wonder they said either way! There was a viewpoint here so I went and sat on the wall and got out a cake and ate it looking at the view wondering where the hell Haba was! (I was looking in the wrong direction of course). A man drove in and asked if I was a peregrino. He was very pleasant and he told me to continue up the hill on this main road, as it was the shortest way. For his trouble I gave him a weeding tool that I had picked up on the track. I thought it could puncture a tractor's tyre or someone's boot if left there, it was almost new! He was very pleased with it, and I was pleased too, I had got rid of a bit more weight chuckle. I set off up hill. There was no alternative but walk in the road, there being no gap, only a ditch at the inside. On one blind bend I would have been flattened, had I not had my staff with its bright luminance cover over the umbrella, sticking out towards the centre of the road! Breathing a sigh of relief I made the top.

From here the road went down hill gently and I passed a track that joined from the other side of the mount. This was the Camino I should have skirted the town by!!!

The photo is looking back!


It was 8 kilometres to Haba, where I had a coffee and a small cognac, then 6 more on a soft track that made it a hard pull, to Don Benito, a big town. Walking through the suburbs I stopped and re read my book and found I had passed the only refuge and, being me I would not go back, deciding I could do another 8 kms if I ate here first!

I found a restaurant and the waiter assured me there was a albergue in Medellín. I ate a good meal then left. I walked a good kilometre then realised I had left a staff outside the restaurant leaning against the wall! Swearing to myself I hurried back and it was gone! I was devastated! It was like loosing a right arm. I went into the restaurant to ask if they had seen it and to my delight they had it behind the counter. Very relieved I returned to find my way again. As I remember it, I was walking most of the time on a good graded track the 8kms or more to Medellín.





They were hard kms and I felt very tired even though I had eaten. The castle to my right looked impressive but the track seemed to go elsewhere.
























At last arriving in Medellín I stopped a police car and asked if they could direct me to the 'parroquia.' For some reason I had a hell of a job to say that Spanish word! I showed them it written down too but they were unhelpful, although they did say there was a hostel!

I continued to the far side of town still with no luck. I spotted the hostel and went in the porch, untied my rope harness, entered, parked the bag and removed my hat. There was one big woman siting on a barstool smoking in the dimly lit room with her drink on the bar. I went over and waited but no one came, I asked the woman if there was any chance of a room for the night for a tired peregrino.
She puffed out a mouthful of smoke,
"How many?"
"Just me" I replied
She looked me up and down,
"Possibly! 25 euro if you only use the one bed!"
"I have just walked 35kilometers, isn't there anything cheaper"
"No!"
"Is there a albergue in town?"
"No, that’s the price take it or leave it!"
Seeing I wasn't going to soften this hard woman I said
"Ok, I'll take it" I was too tired to argue!
"Passport"
"It's in my bag, can I give it to you later when I have unpacked"
"No. I need it before you get the room!"
What difference that would make I could not understand. I knew it was difficult for me to get at but I'd have to go and find it. There was no arguing with this woman! I returned to my bag and undid the top and pulled out a few things. I got my arm inside and found the zip to the pocket and managed to undo that. I then went in again to find it, and after a few moments I retrieved a plastic bag took the passport out of its covering case and returned to my antagoniser who was behind the bar now. I put the passport on the bar with a 50e note
She picked up the note then put it back on the bar top near her, grabbed the passport stuffed that under the bar top, and said gruffly,
"You can have it back in the morning," and started to look for my change!
"But I want to leave early, surely you can take the particulars and give it back?"
"No passport no room!"
"But there's no need, just write down the details, you have the money!" I stated knowing passports have been known to disappear when out of your sight!
"No! No passport no room!"
I'd had enough, I picked up my 50E note and told her she could stick her room, I would rather sleep under a bloody bridge out there then in her B hostel. She slammed the passport back on the bar top. I snatched it up and pocked it and angrily crossed back to my bag and grabbed my things and stormed out!
Where to now? I left the town and walked across the bridge wondering if that was a smart move. I noted the river ran through all of the twenty or so arches! There would be no shelter there! On the far side I saw what I thought was the Camino but chose to stick to the road as near the river the track looked flooded in places and boggy. Damn! I was tired and realised and it would soon be dark. I had to find something soon. I was about 1 kilometre from the town when I spotted a small farm some distance down a track to my left, to the right a little way off the track stood a stack of those big rolls of hay that farmers make! I walked over to look at them.

There was a gap at the end where some had been removed. If it rained I might be in trouble but I had a thin sheet from my camping stuff that I had used to stop the proper ground sheet from getting muddy. I laid my cape down as a ground sheet over a thin layer of hay that was there and rolled out my sleeping bag on that. I then propped the plastic sheet as best I could at an angle against the bails with my staffs and tried to weigh the outer edge down with a few stones. I thought the food I was carrying might attract mice or rats so I put my rucksack in a black plastic rubbish bag that I carry for such occasions, this would also keep it dry, also it would not show so much. There was nothing to stop the rats joining me in my bed, I pondered with a shudder. I hoped they were not that bold! I also prayed it wouldn't rain as I took off my boots and stuffed them into a crevice in the haystack. I slid into my tiny shelter and had to replace the stones again. It occurred to me, that a gust of wind would blow the whole thing away! I hadn't much hope of sleeping much but it was warm in my sleeping bag. I decided I'd better text Maisie as it was getting dark. No one would disturb me now, from the track my camp would look like just a few bits of plastic blown up against the haystack. I couldn't very well text Maisie I was out here for the night, that would keep her awake too! I just text 'Found a place at Medellín!'


May the 15th
Medellín to Trullanos

I had slept quite well, except for having to go for the non existent wc in the night a few times! Each time I had to rebuild my tent on my return! I had awoken as the sun came up, then got up and took a photo of my bed. I text Maisie and a few friends that I was ok and just setting off. I tied on my trolley and pulled it to the road and took a couple of photos, as the sun grew brighter.




I soon found the turning to Yelbes and it was a flat country road and the pack pulled easily while I admired the row of hills running parallel over to my left. I needed a coffee and some kind of breakfast. I thought the village of Yelbes a few kms further, might just have something and on arriving I took the main street and asked and was pointed to a bar sign further down the street. When I got there, I found the bar was down a side street. I climbed a few steps, bag and all and went in. A few men were standing along the counter of the little bar and all were very friendly. The coffee was good but there was not much to eat except a couple of small cakes. I was told after a discussion by all, that there was a bridge down and I should take a different way to Torrefresneda. There would be an albergue there I was assured. They told me to take the side road from the bar, turn right then left across a railway line, and right on the other side. On coming to the junction they told me to take the left road to Santa Amalia and walk about a kilometre, and past a warehouse. When the road went down a dip, and just before it went up again turn left. Then stick to that road until I came to the river, where there should be a few arrows. On the latter part, turn right then left over the river bridge and left again onto the main road. For me that was a lot to remember!

The countryside was very like drained marshland, reminiscent of the Romney Marsh where I had spent my youth in England, it had that same very flat and windswept look of reclaimed marshland. Remembering and finding the first part was a quite unnerving and the turning off the road to Santa Amalia that I was supposed to find, was quite a distance past any buildings!

When I did find I was in a shallow dip and saw a turning, I stopped and was standing wondering if this was the right one, when the first car I had seen since leaving the bar came along it towards me! I was able to ask the driver if this was the turning I wanted!


From here all went well and I soon came to a marked camino road and continued across this flat landscape for a lot of kilometres till I eventually came to the river. Here I turned right, then left onto the main road, and almost immediately came to a dangerous point. I had to get across another river bridge, but this time with heavy traffic travelling in both directions without a footpath or edging strip! I waited for a break in the traffic flow and hurried across and made it just in time without mishap, but for some way after the bridge the so-called safe strip was very narrow! After a while I took a track and left the main road behind and arrived in Torrefresneda that the main road now bypasses.

Here I found the Café Carmen near the church. I sat on the sheltered sun terrace and drank my coffee while watching half the village arrive in their best Sunday clothes for a communion in the church. It was pleasant and the sun warmed me so I decided to eat a meal here. I also toyed with the idea of stopping the night, but when I asked the lady behind the bar as I ordered my meal she said, "Sorry, we don't rent out rooms but there is a place in the far corner of the square that used to at one time! You might try there." Having the meal proved a good move and I ate very well indeed and the wine was good. She hadn't sounded to confident about the accommodation, so I paid my bill and after chatting for a while to a young couple with a charming little girl at the next table, where another little koala abandoned me, I hooked up to my pack, not bothering to ask about lodgings in the corner of the square, and continued on my way. I soon came to a road that crossed the motorway and there was no arrow so continued down the track on the left of it. Just as I got to the dirt track a motorcyclist screamed up to me and braked. "Are you looking for the Camino to Santiago?" "Yes" I said Amazingly he said he had seen me leave the bar and had watched me go the wrong way and came to tell me I must cross the bridge and go down the other side of the motorway, as this side service track didn't connect further on! I thanked him and he turned round and went back while I also returned and crossed the bridge as I had been told! What a generous thing to do, the koala had sent him I think! On the other side of the bridge I could see the other service track of the motorway but to get onto it would be a problem! I couldn't see that it joined the road I was on, so I had to pick up the rucksack and carry it across a ploughed field. Once on the track I found it was good enough to pull my rucksack around the potholes and puddles again, and there was a yellow arrow!







Some parts were much better than others! I went on for some kilometres then when this side was blocked I crossed a bridge over to the other side and took a photo of a stork in its nest that was more or less at the height of the bridge.


































I also photographed some strange bugs that all seemed to be crossing my track in the same direction, about 8 centermiters long with a ant type head and 6 orange stripes across the body. If anyone knows what they are, I would love to know.

I knew when I left Medellín this morning Mérida was about 40 kilometres and I wanted to do it in two stages as I find 40 k is too much. Sure I can do it at times but why should I if I could break the journey into two more or less equal parts. On my map that I had been given in Cordoba, over San Pedro was scrawled 'Hostal', in pen! It was difficult to estimate how far I had to walk to San Pedro, where I was now, but if I had come by road, it would have been about 26kms according to the numbers on my map! I felt that on the camino I had taken, it had been that or more, and now I was tired. Having arrived there and near the motorway I asked in two hostels. One was full, the other wanted 29e, and a hotel a bit further on 50 odd. If I had to pay that sort of money all the time I'd be in trouble. I took a side street that led me into the village proper! I walked through the deserted village seeing no one, then an old chap put his face out of a door as I got to it. He said there was an albergue and he told me where it was! So I'm thinking my day of walking was almost over and I could rest soon. I walked past the ayuntamiento and turned left up a big still deserted street and shortly I came to it, a big building that could have housed a great number of peregrinos with big glaze tile name plate spelling out Albergue. Big fancy wrought iron gates blocked the entrance. I tried them but all was securely locked and I saw no bell! The man I had spoken to had said he thought the Guardia Seville in the building opposite would most probably have the key. I crossed the road to the official building and banged on the door, but it was also locked and deserted! What now I pondered? I remembered I'd seen the Ayuntamiento as I came in so I started back towards it. A car came down the street going my way and I managed stop him and ask if he knew how I could get the key. He didn't and said if the Guardia wasn't there I should try the Ayuntamiento and commented everyone is on fiesta and out in the campo (countryside) and all the villages in this area were doing the same! I got back to the square and found that the town hall was also locked and deserted!

I looked around for someone to ask again, I did find one woman after a while, but when I asked her she replied, "Only the Mayor would know that and he's in the country somewhere and will have been drinking all day and not much help!" she continued, "Why not walk to the next village there is one there I think."

I thanked her and went back to the drinking fountain in the square to fill my bottles while deciding what to do. A group of young boys on bikes came down the street where the albergue was and were full of questions as to what I was doing and they were tickled pink when I told them I had slept out before and might have to again tonight! They were from Trujillanos and told me there was a hostel and maybe an albergue there as well. I had seen the arrows leading out of town while looking at the Guardia building so I set off again in that direction.

I came across a couple walking towards the town a little way out and they also said there was an albergue in Trujillanos that was another 6kms, walking mostly beside the motorway!

I got some way there when I thought I might just be able to rig up a tent out of the bit of plastic like I had last night. There was no haystack but there was a wire fence either side on this track. I stopped and tried to rig it up but there seemed no way to get it to form a shelter and the prickly thistles seemed to be everywhere! The boys on bikes came by as I scrapped the idea and packed the things back into my pack again! "You going to sleep there?" they asked excitedly!
"No I cant sleep here my plastic isn't going to work unless I find a better place. I shall have to get to your village" I informed them.
Now they warned me that their village was on fiesta too and there might not be room at the inn for this old peregrino! Off they went and I walked on for another 4 or so kilometres till I came to the village. Like the last, there was a bit of modern development servicing the motorway but only one hostel. The bar was very busy serving customers and people were eating an drinking and laughing in the entrance hall as well and even flowed out onto the terrace outside! Surely I would find a bed here? I left the rucksack in the entrance and forced my way up to the bar, and ordered a coffee and asked had they a room for the night.
"Sorry we are full"
I tried again saying anything would do, that I had to have a roof for the night I had walked all the way from Medellin!!! The barmaid asked the boss but he shrugged his shoulders and said
"Mérida"
"I can't make it. It's another 9 kms, I just can't do that it would be dark anyway, by the time I got there if I did!"
He shrugged his shoulders and turned to serve another customer!
I drank the coffee, hooked up my pack and went down the steps and turned into a side street heading into the village. It was a nice village, I found the main square and Ayuntamiento building, closed again! There was hardly a soul about.

I went back into the street I had come out of as I had seen a small square and the church where there might be a porch I could use I thought. The nice little square had two or more bench seats and several shrubs and plants but no shelter but on the wall of the church opposite was a water fountain with a tap. I walked over and tried it, it worked, so here I could get water and wash. The church door was round the corner and my hopes faded seeing the huge door to the porch was locked as normal! I went back and sat on the nearest bench and stretched out but it wasn't long enough, up off the floor yes but all night sitting up was not my idea of a good bed! A couple walked into the square and I asked them if there was anywhere in town that might have a bed. There wasn't they assured me. We spoke a while then they left after asking what I would do. I said it was too late and I was too tired to do the other 9 kms to Mérida so if I could find nothing else I had noticed there was a small canopy on the front of the Ayuntamiento and I would sleep there! I was walking back to that spot when the church bells chimed! Well-dressed people started appearing and heading in that direction. The church service would be starting! Well for that the door must be unlocked, I might be able to ask them if I could sleep in the porch but had little hope of that but I also needed to go to church. I had promised to say a prayer for a special person today and maybe a small prayer might just help me calm down a bit. To be honest it looked as if I might need help for the one above tonight too! I went back to the fountain, tried to clean myself up a bit and went round to the door. The outer one was open and I lifted my trolley and bag over the threshold and crossed and opened the small inner door and did the same there making as little noise as I could but the trolley banged several times making the big doors rattle loudly. I looked up and realised the service was in progress! Embarrassed I crept to the side and behind the last pew, amazed to find the place was almost full of people! Standing and kneeling would be a problem here so I left my bag and crept around the pew in front and sat down. Following the service was impossible for me and I knelt when they did, stood when everyone else did chuckle. The service was not too long and I had time to say what I wanted too to myself as well as when the time came, to turn and shake hands with all those that I could reach, getting many puzzled glances. I do not visit church often but this custom is always a moment I love as you make contact with all those around you whether you speak their language or not! I couldn't get to the doors very quickly because of the rucksack trolley so most were standing outside when I came out and I stood with them for a while rather than push my way through listening to the conversations as much as my Spanish would allow! Then I realised the preacher had not joined us and it was too late the door was locked again! Oh well! No sleeping on the porch tonight here but I felt in better spirits now. I heard several folk ask who I was and were told by others I was a peregrino walking to Santiago, but no one actually asked me, probably thinking I couldn't speak Spanish as I stood there smiling! I could get out now and walked close to the wall and round the corner and at the fountain I brushed my teeth and daringly took off my shirt and washed myself and it. Then put on a fresh shirt and packed it all back and headed off to the other Square. The kids were playing ball there. I took a spot near the wall under the little bit of shelter and unpacked my bag, spread out my silver car screen pad, which I use as a mattress then my sleeping bag and sat down and watched them! I don't think the kids were too happy as I had the feeling they used the gap between the pillars as a goal, but none complained when they came over and chatted and asked what I was doing. I told them I would sleep here tonight, as the hostel was full, where I was from and what I was doing. They asked if we knew football in Australia. I told them we played a different type but soccer was getting more and more popular here. They were quite happy with that and continued playing while I rolled into my sleeping bag.

















The marble slabs were not soft but the silver stopped the cold marble from sapping my body heat! The sun started to set and the square returned to its tranquil state and was enhanced for a while in a rosy glow and then the streetlights came on. It was getting cold and I snuggled down and covered most of my head leaving just a peephole!

In the fading light I saw a man and a small boy come out of a house opposite both carrying something. I watched until I realised they were coming to me. I sat up and smiled first at the little lad, probably 3 or 4 years old, then the Dad as he presented me with an ice cream container filled with something warm and then a packet of Choc-lo-cal 'chocolate powder', "That’s for the milk if you like it" he said, then took the paper wrapped parcel from the little boy, who was to shy to give it himself, and put that in my lap as well. I was overcome and stammered out my thank-you. I opened the container to see it was indead, hot milk! I undid the parcel to find two large bocadillos, one filled with fresh cooked veal still hot! The other was full of chorizo! I had a cup at hand right by my bag and started to mix the milk with the chocolate still thanking them as they backed off and left me to eat and drink. They were half way across the square when I knew what to do! I called out to them to wait and come back as I rummaged in my rucksack for my koalas and pulled out the pack. I removed one as we met again. The father was holding the little ones hand, as the boy looked down shyly as little ones do! I showed the little gift to his dad and asked if I could give it to the boy, he smilingly nodded and I tried to give it as the youngster was trying to hide behind his dad. We got him to accept it and clipped it on his coat. I asked his Dad how many children he had and he said three boys so I gave the little one two more of different jacket colours and told him they were for his two brothers! I explained that I had stuck the shells on the hats, as they were peregrinos who had kept me company on my journey. So three more koalas left me as I sat back down to enjoy my hot chocolate and very tasty sandwich! It was a cold night but it never rained and as always, I had to get up a couple of times to the call of nature-an old mans habit! The now empty milk container came in very handy because I could fill it secretly, standing behind a pillar, then walk round the corner and pour its contents down a water drain, therefore not fouling the beautiful square! Afterwards, I would hurry back in my bare feet and pyjamas and snuggle down again!

May the 15th
Trullanos to Mérida



Maisie and I had tried hard to get my phone to receive calls yesterday but every time I had opened the phone it cut her off! It was infuriating! Maisie said our boys both thought the probable reason it wouldn't work must be the build up of text messages! I thought it was probably a waste of time as it had never seemed to make any difference when I deleted some. The last message she had sent me said that she would call again this morning.

It was 7.30 am I could not, delete all, as I couldn't find out how to do that anyway! It takes 3 taps on different screens to remove each one separately and this morning I had made an early start and I had got rid of some 20 odd!
I was deleting text like mad when it rang! As normal it cut out and Maisie phoned again and again. Telstra kept sending me missed call messages and I don’t think I was lowering the number at all! Suddenly it made a connection! I was cold and fresh out of my bedroll and now angry at the phone!

I was choking back tears as we spoke. I was unsure if she had got through to me, or if it had been me ringing her!
I told her my news and she was still very excited about the bowls singles champion award she had received and the dinner dance, she had been too to get it last night, while I slept on the cold marble, chuckle! Ringing off I thought it was time I got on the move and soon packed the bag and set off past the church where I had seen a yellow arrow.


I had taken a photo of my sleeping spot and now the church as I past it with the sun already bright, but it was not very warm. The camino from here to the city was a pretty uninteresting (9 kilometres) as it still followed the big road most of the way.







I took a photo when I saw the city in the distance and then again at the first Mérida city sign.












I had a job to find the correct road but by asking and seeing arrows I came down a busy street and found a bar to get a very necessary coffee and something to eat.





I then headed off again looking for arrows and past a piece of the old Roman aquaduct that I had never seen before then came to and crossed the magnificent wide river using the old Roman bridge and headed into the old city.








The old Roman bridge is incredibly long and there is now an impressive new one that you can walk across too and is a good place to take photos of the other, like I had in Cordoba I found later. I continued up hill and realised that I had come up a different street to last time, but the Tourist office was well signed and here I got myself a town map from one of the busy girls. I stood outside for a moment and memories came flooding back of the last time I had come here when walking the Vía del Plata and the many friends I had been with. Now my brain could only remember the bars we had drank and eaten in that time and the fun we had had here. I had visited the city before that too, with Maisie and the kids when they were young, and even earlier with my mother and father, but details of those trips were few now that was so long ago! Thinking back to the Vía del Plata Camino I couldn't remember where the place had been where we had eventually spent the night, only it was on the way out of the city, rather than this side!
Oh anyway! That's another story and you must look up my Vía del Plata camino to understand what was going through my mind as I realised I could look for a week and not find it. I looked down at the tourist office map the lady had given me, the albergue was ringed in Biro, where the girl had marked it for me. I noticed it was alongside the river and seemed to be in a good spot to see the Roman bridge again, and also a lot of other Roman ruins on the edge of the town! Well if it looked good, why not stop there, I headed back down the hill again.






I saw the square with its four bars where I had drank and the bull fighting bar-restaurant that I remembered from my Via Plata trip! I could almost hear Phillipe calling to the ladies as I passed! I continued on down to the river, turned right and found the albergue.
















It was an old converted water mill, with water on two sides and I should suppose it was under it too. I went in and gave my details and peeked into the dormitory and WC before signing in and paying my money. All was clean and at the moment not too full but it was early as yet. I claimed a bed, unpacked and washed my socks, undies and shirts. The sun was out and I found as normal, only one small clothes airier! This was standing outside and already full up. I therefore thought the metal railing would be better and fixed a thin string line there as well. It was very weak string but I kept it short and only hung my smalls on it. My sleeping bag, which needed airing, I unzipped completely, and using up the last of the balcony rail I laid it across to air. As I was going back inside a German came out with his washing and he said he had no line at all. Back inside I grabbed the last piece of the string of mine, that looked stronger that it was! I returned outside and gave it to him saying keep it short for only socks and things or it will break. I was rather embarrassed 15 minutes later to see it back in the washroom and communal toilets on the washroom windowsill! In lots of short tangled bits! Oh dear I had told him it was weak chuckle! While I was there a female cried out in English from the toilet!
"Can you help me there's no toilet roll!"
So my more successful good deed of the day was to pass a spare roll under the door chuckle!!! at least I was able to help this time!!!
I went back to my bunk and rested for a while and it was 2pm when I text Maisie to say I had arrived and all was drying! I text many of my other friends too. It puzzled me that Antonia had never replied to any and I felt sure my texts were not getting to her! I knew they had said something about meeting me in Zamora but receiving no text from her, I had no idea if that was still a possibility! I had thought it most unlikely they would come all that way just to see me for a couple of days at the most, and now the day after tomorrow I would be there!
I soon got fed up sitting about and decided to go see the town more fully.

I took a few photos of the albergue as I left and walked to the bridge again and up into the city peeping through some hedges to see different ruins, taking a number of photos.































I took coffee in my bull fighting bar,



















also had beer in the square but I was living in the past, I was alone and it was worrying me.


















I noticed the church in the corner was open and looking for something to do which I hadn't done when here before, I went in and looked around the rather dark church and said my thanks for all the help I had received and for getting me this far safely.







Coming out I proceeded back down towards the albergue. As I was passing the new bridge I changed my mind and direction and walked across it.

At the end I saw the bus station and in here I asked about bus times to Zamora. I gathered from the man in the office there were only two. First one at 12.30am arriving about 4 something, the other was 3.30am getting there at 7.30am, as far as I could find out this was about the only way I could get there, as the train went via Madrid and was more expensive anyway!
If it were so difficult to get to Zamora, a big town and the timing of the bus that bad I would have to scrap my idea of stopping off on the way at Galisteo! Maisie would be pleased I thought, my friend there is very pretty, chuckle!!
I returned to the albergue and sat on the wall trying to make up my mind what to do.
'I could stop tonight here as already arranged, then leave tomorrow night in the early hours. I'd have all day to sight-see the town! The best would be the 3.30am bus arriving at 730am, rather then arriving in the middle of the night wondering where I might sleep in Zamora. I would rather stay here till then, but could I?'
I asked the guy running the albergue and he said while I could not stop another night, I could leave my bag in his room till 10 o'clock but then he closed up and went home! I would have to trail it behind me until the bus went!
I might have been able to sleep on the bus a bit and maybe an hour or too in the bus depot but it would be a rotten night wandering alone with my bag I thought!
I went in and brought out my trolley by the wall and did some trolley repairs and chatted to Claire, a fellow peregrina from England, that I got on well with. It was nice to have company but soon she had things to do. I finished greasing the wheels with Vaseline and put them back on.

















I put it back by my bed and walked to the Roman bridge. Here I met a charming Spanish couple.

I walked across and back with them. They were n holiday from Valladolid and they told me one of the best wines that they knew was from Toro, which was between Zamora and Valladolid, and if I was going to Zamora I should try it. We all enjoyed the leisurely stroll, taking photos as the sun was getting low and it was warmer than it had been since my arrival in Spain!
























I gave them my card but unfortunately I seem to have lost theirs. Back at the albergue I collected up my washing and zipped up my sleeping bag and set it ready to use. I wandered around town a bit and went into the bull fight bar for a bite to eat. It was very crowded with mostly Spanish people, always a good sign. I ate in the noisy bar, as the entire restaurant was full! I had a very good meal and big helpings. Alas, again things had changed, this night there was the full volume roar of racing engines as the Grand Prix car race on TV! In 2004 it had been the quieter sport of bull fighting, and the girls chose to sit out on the terrace rather than watch it! That had been such a great night, I remembered as I drained my red wine and I ordered an orujo!
















May the 17th
Mérida to Zamora

There had been a number of arrivals yesterday but the night had been uneventful. I had no reason to rush to get up, but I rose and packed my bag while a couple in the next 2 beds argued with the caretaker, they were trying to insist the gent had a sickness hoping to be able to stop one more night! The caretaker was having none of it and said they must go but the guy stayed in bed till late and would not get out! I never quite saw the end to that saga, but I didn't think he was going to get away with it. I left my bag in the caretaker's room as he had said I could, and went outside. Here I spoke to Claire again and we both walked towards the bridge taking a coffee on the way there and then went on and into the Alcazaba.

I hope I am right in calling it that, (the fortress at the city end of the bridge). Claire had a ticket from yesterday and it lets you enter all the different historical buildings, as they hole punched it as you entered each one. I hadn't realised this otherwise I would have bought one yesterday too! Anyway I bought one now and we entered the area and found, although much of the building had been destroyed over the centuries, there was much to see!


























The tunnel down to the water supply was very interesting, and the carving on the lintels that had been reused by later generations was superb!




















ceiling






























There were pieces of mosaic floors and slabs of stone pillars some with writing on them, and round balls possibly canon balls!



















































We browsed around for ages then climbed to the top of the wall facing the river and here we had the amazing and best view of the Roman Bridge, being able to see its entire length.


































We met up again later and looked round the town seeing Trojans Arch among other things.






















I went to see the mosaic floors of a palace and we arranged to meet for dinner.


















Claire wanted to try something she had heard about on her walk and we hunted the entire town for (Migas) which I think were breadcrumbs cooked with garlic as far as I could decipher. At last one restaurant had some idea what was wanted and served us and we ate well, Claire got her small dish of migas as a side dish as I remember it. We had almost finished when a Korean friend of Claire's joined us (unfortunately her name slips my memory).








Over lunch Claire told us she was going to walk to the next albergue this afternoon. This, she informed, us was only 9 kms away. It may well have been because new albergues are opening all the time but when I had walked this Camino before I was sure it was much further! She said goodbye and left us to go to the albergue to get her bag and start. I sat with the her friend while she finished her meal and we started to wander back too.

She had seen most of the city's wonders but not the aqueduct and I explained to her it was on the way out. She decided she might as well go as well, as she had to get out of the albergue here anyway. I had time on my hands and also wanted to see this Roman wonder again so asked if I could walk with her as far as the aqueduct. It seemed strange walking with a fellow peregrina and me not carrying a rucksack! It would have been nice to go on too but my plans had been made now! We missed seeing first the arrow and the turning and rather than go back I led her over the embankment and across the railway lines just as I had done on my last visit! Chuckle,

I think it unnerved my young companion and her faith in Australians! As we came to these incredible arches built by the Romans, to carry water to the city and surrounding countryside, I said goodbye to my pretty companion. I watched as she walked out of sight and I strolled down to walk under the arches. I was wondering quite where I had walked before in 2004?




When I looked back to the road, I couldn't see the bar, where the ladies of our 2004 group, who had been walking in front, had rushed in, then out just as fast to get us males to give them moral support! The bar had been full of Spanish working men drinking breakfast! We had all laughed over that together and had then eaten a more solid breakfast ourselves. I might have had a cognac as well chuckle! (Since I have been home I have looked at my photos taken then and you can too, if you go to my Vía del plata blog. I see in the blog, it wasn't so different, and I must have walked in my own footsteps, only it had been about 7 am then and the grass had looked long and uncut! The bar may well be there still, if I could have remembered exactly where to look, chuckle.) Pushing memories aside, I headed back into town deliberately getting lost and so finding a few streets that I had not walked down before.




Eventually I came back to the albergue and spent a while trying to rest in the park opposite, knowing I would get little sleep that night. All the monuments and museums seemed closed by 4pm. The rest of the day dragged slowly as I waited till ten o'clock to collect my bag. I then sat by the river the other side of the bridge for a while but become uncomfortable when a foreigner started asking questions and I had the idea I was being set up for a scam or would soon loose my bag! "I had to move out of the albergue, they wont let me stop the night, so I have to catch a bus out of town" I said, hoping to put them off, my thinking being it's no good robbing a man who has no money!


I finished my bocadillo, moved off and crossed the bridge and I waited in the empty, unheated bus station for some 4 hours for the coach to come at 3.30 am, swearing never to catch a bus at that hour again, if I could help it!!!!!!