I
have managed at
last to get the last part of my Via del Plata walk - from Santiago
to Fisterra, then on to Muxia
and back to Santiago - onto the Amazon Books pages.
You can 'Look Inside' them to see an excerpt on line
and order a copy from them. If you are in Australia you may email me.
Here are
the links:
Amazon Spain:
(There's no 'Look Inside' available on this page)
Fisterra
- MuxiaWhile my next project is to do the same with my Via del Plata story, I hope soon to do the same with all my Camino stories
To find the start of this camino story: To read the Mozarabe: Look on the left for 2010 then June the earliest date
May the 28th
Soutochao to Verin and and my arrival in Oviedo
Soutochao to Verin and and my arrival in Oviedo
I remember we left fairly late for us and it was still cold as we passed where I had been taken first to get the key, and we continued along the ridge until after walking for some while we came to the baker's house. We went up the drive and knocked on the front door and were greeted by a charming lady who told us the empanadas were sold as one big tray full and she showed us one. It was big and we asked if she could oblige us and sell us half. I guess she felt a bit sorry that we had had no breakfast and she cut and wrapped it for us. As we paid I asked if we could sit on her bench in the garden. "By all means" she said and went into the workshop and started loading her van. We were hungry and sat down on the seat amongst the roses and both said it was the best empanada we had ever tasted. It was delicious and we sat there and ate it all. It had chicken in it, which I had never come across in an empanada before. Having been so insistent and sure we only wanted half we didn’t like to ask the busy lady for the other half to take for lunch chuckle. We left and took a last look back at the mountains of Portugal and pressed on into Spain.
I am not sure what the problem was but I seemed lacking energy. It may have been I was still suffering from some bug or just lack of sleep. Last night we hadn't slept well. I had placed my silver foil sheet under our sleeping bags thinking it would keep us warm. Every time one of us had moved it rustled. In the end we had to get up and get rid of it. I still could not get off to sleep after that as I had to go out in the cold several times to water the wild flowers and it had been damn cold!
We reached Villadeos and could not find a bar and on leaving we found a grass bank out of the wind and in the sun and tried to rest a while, but it was uncomfortable!
It had been all road walking and a bit uninteresting and it looked as if it was to stay that way.
After a while we stopped in the shade of a building and there was a bus stop across the road. Janis said
"I would take a bus if one comes along"
Just then down the hill came a bus
OK we crossed the road and flagged it down. I climbed on the step and asked the conductress if it went to Verin and was told that it didn’t but one should come along soon. I thanked her and I dismounted again and looked at Janis as it drove off.
"Do we wait here and catch it or keep walking? "
"Wait" was his reply.
And so it was we came into the town of Verin by bus and were taken to the central bus station. From here we walked through town to the river and found the albergue that was also part of the tourist office.
We booked in and were taken to see the dormitory that had been a water mill I think. Down some steps then big double doors led off the street into the bigish room. No windows and all grey stone walls with rows of bunk beds down each side, none were taken so we chose our bunks and were shown the shower, washbasin and WC in a small room at the end. The WC was stainless steel with no seat. I hate these as you cant relax and people fowl them while trying to balance but it was all clean at the moment!
We had been told in the office that most walkers take the road that soon joined up with the other Plata route that I had walked before and the cyclists took the way I had thought of taking. Both would go through Orense. We looked at the maps. In my mind I did not want to walk over a road I had done before more than I had too, I would have to think about this and decide later.
We took it in turns to shower then went out to find a café and food. Nothing seemed open and the recommended restaurants were closed and not to open till 9 pm. None seemed very exciting anyway. We soon got bored and returned to the albergue only to find it was now full and we wanted to sleep! All were cyclists from Spain that it seems start from here to get the paper to say they are pilgrims on arrival in Santiago. They had no respect for tired walkers needing sleep and 5 of them were showering in the shower room together! As there was no curtain around the shower and no floor basin, 8cm of their water flooded the floor. Oh yes they were having a great time!!! When they had done you couldn't wash at the basin without wetting your feet even if you had boots on!!!
I got up to use the W.C. First I had to get a mop and keep sweeping water back in the direction of the shower outlet that was higher than the rest of the floor! Why had they not even thought that we might not have like cleaning up after them I don’t know! It put me in a foul mood and I noticed Janis wasn't happy either. I forget where we did eat in the end but it couldn’t have been much good. Janis said
"I think I will walk back into Portugal, I have a friend there I can go and see. I can't face each albergue being full like this one all the way to Santiago!"
I agreed and said,
"Well I could ring Vigi and ask if I could go to see her for a while instead of walking alone with this lot! I could get a bus to Orense and there another to the North to Oviedo and maybe do some walks in the Picos de Europa. I knew I was going to miss Janis for it seemed we had been friends for a long time. By going to Oviedo I could soon be with an old friend again.
So it was, next morning, a Sunday, I saw Janis walk to catch a bus to the border and I a little later took one to Orense. Vigi had said I was welcome. My Camino for the first time had not finished in Santiago but there were some exciting times to come.
I spent that night in a cheap hostel in Orense
then next day the coach took me across the Camino Francesa with its thousands of pilgrims in a steady line, one after the other all heading for Santiago.
Seeing the number of them I was happy. I had after all walked the last bit many times, with fewer crowds and with dear friends made on the way.
My comfortable coach was heading across the Picos de Europa when I next awoke. I now saw my original plan to walk across these from Leon would also have been impossible.
The white snow came well down, well below where my maps said I should cross the mountain passes.
Anyone alone and as tired as I was and with not even a woollen jumper in the pack, would die up there. No, I needed a rest and good food and I was going to the right place. I just hoped I would not be too much of a nuisance to Vigi for a few days!
Oviedo
Dear friend Vigi welcomed me as I knew she would and I was to meet dear Conche again too.
This Camino for the first time for me had not finished in Santiago. There were some exciting times to come though , I was to walk to Cuadonga! Sorry to see that story and the new friends I met on the way you will have to go see the faverite site at top, on left named Cuadonga
I received a text later from Janis saying his bus only went to the border as it was a Sunday but he had soon got a lift to 20 kilometres from his friends house and would be there tomorrow if not before. Unfortunately we have lost contact as our phones didn't work when we got home and I haven't an email address for him
By for now
Michael
I am not sure what the problem was but I seemed lacking energy. It may have been I was still suffering from some bug or just lack of sleep. Last night we hadn't slept well. I had placed my silver foil sheet under our sleeping bags thinking it would keep us warm. Every time one of us had moved it rustled. In the end we had to get up and get rid of it. I still could not get off to sleep after that as I had to go out in the cold several times to water the wild flowers and it had been damn cold!
We reached Villadeos and could not find a bar and on leaving we found a grass bank out of the wind and in the sun and tried to rest a while, but it was uncomfortable!
It had been all road walking and a bit uninteresting and it looked as if it was to stay that way.
After a while we stopped in the shade of a building and there was a bus stop across the road. Janis said
"I would take a bus if one comes along"
Just then down the hill came a bus
OK we crossed the road and flagged it down. I climbed on the step and asked the conductress if it went to Verin and was told that it didn’t but one should come along soon. I thanked her and I dismounted again and looked at Janis as it drove off.
"Do we wait here and catch it or keep walking? "
"Wait" was his reply.
And so it was we came into the town of Verin by bus and were taken to the central bus station. From here we walked through town to the river and found the albergue that was also part of the tourist office.
We booked in and were taken to see the dormitory that had been a water mill I think. Down some steps then big double doors led off the street into the bigish room. No windows and all grey stone walls with rows of bunk beds down each side, none were taken so we chose our bunks and were shown the shower, washbasin and WC in a small room at the end. The WC was stainless steel with no seat. I hate these as you cant relax and people fowl them while trying to balance but it was all clean at the moment!
We had been told in the office that most walkers take the road that soon joined up with the other Plata route that I had walked before and the cyclists took the way I had thought of taking. Both would go through Orense. We looked at the maps. In my mind I did not want to walk over a road I had done before more than I had too, I would have to think about this and decide later.
We took it in turns to shower then went out to find a café and food. Nothing seemed open and the recommended restaurants were closed and not to open till 9 pm. None seemed very exciting anyway. We soon got bored and returned to the albergue only to find it was now full and we wanted to sleep! All were cyclists from Spain that it seems start from here to get the paper to say they are pilgrims on arrival in Santiago. They had no respect for tired walkers needing sleep and 5 of them were showering in the shower room together! As there was no curtain around the shower and no floor basin, 8cm of their water flooded the floor. Oh yes they were having a great time!!! When they had done you couldn't wash at the basin without wetting your feet even if you had boots on!!!
I got up to use the W.C. First I had to get a mop and keep sweeping water back in the direction of the shower outlet that was higher than the rest of the floor! Why had they not even thought that we might not have like cleaning up after them I don’t know! It put me in a foul mood and I noticed Janis wasn't happy either. I forget where we did eat in the end but it couldn’t have been much good. Janis said
"I think I will walk back into Portugal, I have a friend there I can go and see. I can't face each albergue being full like this one all the way to Santiago!"
I agreed and said,
"Well I could ring Vigi and ask if I could go to see her for a while instead of walking alone with this lot! I could get a bus to Orense and there another to the North to Oviedo and maybe do some walks in the Picos de Europa. I knew I was going to miss Janis for it seemed we had been friends for a long time. By going to Oviedo I could soon be with an old friend again.
So it was, next morning, a Sunday, I saw Janis walk to catch a bus to the border and I a little later took one to Orense. Vigi had said I was welcome. My Camino for the first time had not finished in Santiago but there were some exciting times to come.
I spent that night in a cheap hostel in Orense
then next day the coach took me across the Camino Francesa with its thousands of pilgrims in a steady line, one after the other all heading for Santiago.
Seeing the number of them I was happy. I had after all walked the last bit many times, with fewer crowds and with dear friends made on the way.
My comfortable coach was heading across the Picos de Europa when I next awoke. I now saw my original plan to walk across these from Leon would also have been impossible.
The white snow came well down, well below where my maps said I should cross the mountain passes.
Anyone alone and as tired as I was and with not even a woollen jumper in the pack, would die up there. No, I needed a rest and good food and I was going to the right place. I just hoped I would not be too much of a nuisance to Vigi for a few days!
Oviedo
Dear friend Vigi welcomed me as I knew she would and I was to meet dear Conche again too.
This Camino for the first time for me had not finished in Santiago. There were some exciting times to come though , I was to walk to Cuadonga! Sorry to see that story and the new friends I met on the way you will have to go see the faverite site at top, on left named Cuadonga
I received a text later from Janis saying his bus only went to the border as it was a Sunday but he had soon got a lift to 20 kilometres from his friends house and would be there tomorrow if not before. Unfortunately we have lost contact as our phones didn't work when we got home and I haven't an email address for him
By for now
Michael
