My notes on the Mozárabe
or
Lost in Spain!
or
Lost in Spain!
Hi all
This is Mike here now home safe and sound! I will now start to tell my story in more detail. This was a hard and different camino for me. Wonderful warm moments with old friends and a few new ones.
There were a times when feeling sick or trying to sleep against a haystack or on hard concrete, or just lost in the cold rain somewhere, I would wonder if I would make it home!
I now sit here surrounded by bits of scribble on scraps of paper and on the back of maps, some bits just disappeared. You see sometimes, (usually when lost,) I could not seem to find the time to write notes or even use the camera. I would miss some beautiful views and details that now I have no record of except those in my head.
The only way I can tell this story is go back to the start just before I left and from there try to remember what happened and where and try to piece it all together!
.
My rucksack in the last week was fitted with wheels that I had altered from a trolley I had found that had been made to carry lawn bowls! I had fitted it with removable and bigger wheels so that when fitted to the rucksack I could tow it, leaving all the straps free on the other side.
I did find I had to strap the waist-belt to the pack with a quick release strap to stop my flask and water bottle touching the floor when being pulled but it seemed to work OK! I could just turn it around, undo that strap and pick it up onto my back without removing the wheels. I finished it with just enough time for a couple of practice runs around my walk by the river path and across some rough grass areas. Unfortunately there are no rocky potholed paths here that I could try it on. The trolley was packed into the bag's outside pocket for on the aeroplane and all wrapped in cling wrap. I was ready to go and I hope this works.
May the 4th
Maisie and I drove to the airport and we had a coffee there and all too soon it's hugs and kisses and I'm waving to Maisie as I go through to the passport control! My heart is pounding, tears are in my eyes, I'm sad yet so excited, the time has come again. I am to risk all for a crazy passion of mine to walk Camino again! What will happen this time?
All goes according to schedule and I'm soon airborne and heading out over Perth and my home and my love. I'm once again bound for the sunny skies of Spain and the unknown tracks out of Cordoba.
I arrive in Singapore on time. I had sat next to and chatted to an English lady who was going back leaving a daughter here who will also return to England in 6 weeks time. I have been through that and know how stressful it can be, only to return two years later. I wonder to myself if she will? Hours later the plane descends and we have a good landing. I set off on the long walk to gate D84. On arrival it is not open but I was lucky and found a seat outside in the wide hallway, here I received and sent text to Maisie. She had followed the flight on the computer and told me of my friends and family who had wished me well. The next stage is the longest and the seat seems made of concrete by the time I land at Paris.
May the 5th
I know I have little time to catch the next flight to Madrid which leaves from the other terminal! After a long walk I find big queues and confusing signs and hundreds of people in those zig-zag tape lines waiting to get through passport control. There is no way of knowing what queue I should be in, so I join what I think is the shortest one and shuffle forward every few minutes continually looking at my watch. At last I get to the end and its my turn, my English passport is ok. I hurry through only to find now it’s the baggage check. I throw in the tray my little hand luggage bag full of my clothes and essentials. Off comes my camera and trouser belt (I start to step forward) "Phone" someone says, off that comes from around my neck,
"Empty pockets"
Now my waistcoat has some 6 pockets on the sides and 2 on the back as made by the makers. My own alterations added three inside + three secret ones.
This contains foreign money Aus, Singapore $ and Euros plus all the maps and books for my walk, the best part of a kilo, there was some in my trousers too. I can't unload that, it would take me a week to re fill it! I heave it off and put that in a tray
"Empty pockets"
I had changed my socks on the plane and as I wear two pair that’s four smelly socks, which are stuffed in my trouser pockets together with money in 2 wallets. I struggle to get it all out of the trousers! Each pocket, has a pair of other pockets neatly made so as not to notice! All are now filled with the smelly socks and they all have to be emptied one at a time as the pants are tight fitting! Another tray!!!! I go to move again.
"Boots" he says "
Off come the boots! By now I know I am running out of time! I go through, no bells ring so I hurry to replace the boots, waistcoat, belt and camera and hurry off. I get to the gate and there is no plane waiting! I look around and disappointed see a stand with staff sorting out tickets for others so I join the queue and soon get to the desk and all is fairly simple. I am booked to catch the next flight. I move off and suddenly realise I have no wallet! Hell! I must have left it behind and now I can't get back through to get it!!! I go up to the desk and grab a big important looking guy and gabble out I had left my wallet at the check in! He takes me downstairs and back to the check-in-area and has a few words with the staff and I am handed the wallet and some bits in a plastic bag. I'm so relieved, I go upstairs again and start to put things away! Oh no the socks and my pen are not there! If I don't find them I will have trouble with blisters walking I know! I could buy new ones but the hope of buying socks that wick away sweat like those is very remote! I sheepishly go up to the guy again and explain now it's my socks! He sends me down again, this time I am given a waist high open weave rubbish bin to hunt through! Head and shoulders inside the bin I search through rubbish till I find them! Yes I eventually got on a flight that left at 9.30 and chatted to a man who had travelled some years back in Africa as well as Spain and wonder if it was as stressful then!! I'm not sure if I should be out on my own, let alone wandering across Spain!
I arrive in Madrid and look for the Metro and while I walk there, down the long halls, I try to remember how it all works! I see a booth and am sold a one-stop ticket. As long as I don't leave the metro and just change lines, that covers the trip. I need the Plaza del Sol. A couple of line changes later with my rucksack on its wheels, all goes well as the metro is not crowded. I climb the last stairs and I'm in the Plaza del Sol and look around! It looks different but I think it's because I have come up at a different corner. Now to get in touch with Amador, I'm hoping the mobile works here as it's supposed too! I had already text Masie and that worked.
How will he find me? Ok I will sit by the fountain, that’s a huge water cascading bowl and with my rucksack, funny hat and two walking staffs I must stand out from the other people like a sore thumb! I make the phone call and to my surprise it's him and I am told to wait there till he comes. A while later I see Amador as he sees me and I am given a strong hug of welcome, the warm abrazo of the Spanish people! Before I can stop him he grabs my rucksack handle and wheels it away and we cross over and catch a bus. I am told the number, the streets and where to get off and on. As normal for me I soon forget them chuckle, but I won't need them till I come back and that seems in the far distant future. I will worry about that when the time comes. After all I have wandered about this city some years ago and I have a map with roads marked as well as the metro! The whole city can't be as confusing as Paris airport, can it?
We get off the bus a few steps from their apartment and soon the flat door is opened and I am introduced to the small dog that greets us excitedly and rolls over when his master tells him, knowing there are a few treats in Amador's hand. Now the boss! "Slowly let him smell your hand" I am cautioned. I carefully do as Amador says and the Siamese cat gives me the once over and sniffs my fingers and as long as I don’t move my hand away before he turns to go, I am safe from his razor sharp claws! Ok I am safe now and Amador shows me my room and where everything is and we chat over a coffee. Later Antonia comes home from work and after chatting about my plans for this camino and about when we met and walked on my first one, it is decided that we all go for a walk and see some of the city and have a meal in a gorgeous Galician bar. Here I am treated to peppers de Padron and pulpo on a wooden platter with huge pieces of the crusty bread and a fine Rioja wine
May the 6th
I slept well at Antonia's and Amador kindly took me to the train station next morning. There are long queues for tickets and Amador gets in one line and I take the other,
"First to the counter" he laughs. It turns out it was me and Amador comes across and helps me get the ticket to Cordoba.
At the gate we say goodbye and I thank him for having me and I am told to ring when I get to Zamorra, they'll come to meet me there for a day or two. I go through and look for the train on line 12 only to find a railway guard rush after me and get me on the right train! 12 was the carriage!!! chuckle.
The trip was pleasant. A family with a pair of twin girls kept us all amused.
I arrived at the station in Cordoba that I now did not recognise! I found the tourist office and got a map. On leaving the building Maisie phoned me and that was nice and encouraging.
12.30 I looked around and found a street name and stood and worked out the way to the old part of town.
It was a reasonable way off but I soon passed alongside the wall of the old part
and after getting around a lot of roadwork's and restoration scaffolding blocking the road,
I found the Roman river bridge. I walked across it intending to start my Camino from the other side and walk back. I reminisced how I had driven across this bridge a few times, the first time was in 1957 with my father driving, then in the 60's with Maisie and the two children and her uncle and my mother-in-law. I remembered that time with a chuckle to myself. I had driven across slowly in an old 4L Reno I owned then, it was night and few street lights! I had not seen the open drain at the end with no cover, I had suddenly lost the front wheel down it chuckle! By getting the family on the back corner we managed to get it out. I smile to myself, I could not recognise the spot but it must have been just at this far end I mused.
Today only people can walk across the bridge and there was a lot of work going on the town side. It is a magnificent bridge and one imagines the Roman legions marching across to march up the roads for hundreds of kilometres to the north as I was hoping to do!
On the far side now I stopped and took photos and thought it would be a good time to eat, as I was hungry.
I asked a local man for a restaurant where I could eat good and cheap and was pointed to a busy little bar a little further on. I decided this would be a good place to start from chuckle! I ordered two rations of tapas, a potato salad and a red pepper dish and a shandy. No wine today, I wanted a clear head as I took these first steps!
My hunger satisfied, I left and went back to the bridge but now I chose to walk this side of the river and cross over a new bridge that had a great view of the old Roman one, after all I had crossed the bridge one way.
I took photos and soon was back on the old town side. I wandered around the streets and found the San Pedro bar I needed where I hoped to get the credential but found would have too return at 8pm! I now went to look for an albergue. I found myself in a rough looking area and was a bit worried about getting mugged, everywhere seemed full and the only albergue I could find was behind a high wall with big locked iron gates. there seemed no other entrance, well I couldn't find it anyway. I wandered back to the river and found the Molino hotel at 50e. Well it was in a good position being just two streets away from where I had seen the tile Mozárabe camino signs high up on the wall.
I booked into the little hotel and took the few steps up to my room and unloaded my bag. I freshened up and left my bag and went back into town.
The Mezquita was very busy and it cost 8 Euro to enter and I know I should have paid but for some daft reason I objected to hunt out the ticket office and return and join the queue of tourists with noisy school kids etc. Ok, I photographed the outside and gateways as I had done some years before.
So now I walked the narrow streets looking in patios not realising it was the 'week of the patios' and therefore all were open to the public. They were wonderful, so colourful but I had no company and felt a bit alone.
As it was a bit hot and clammy and I was suffering a bit of jet lag, I came back to the hotel and had a siesta.
At 8 pm I returned to San Pedro Square to get the credential. This time I was shown up to an upstairs room and was successful, they also gave me a lot of maps and some more information. I was informed what I had copied and translated from the Internet has been changed! The pleasant chap proceeded to draw lines all over the pages with comments like 'you now turn left before the bridge' etc. I finished up with a very colourful lot of maps that contained little helpful information and my book that I now knew was likely to be wrong! I went down to the bar below and had a long chat with a guy over few wines. Before long he had me chatting on his mobile with video cam to his girlfriend in another bar she was working in, all because they were thinking of coming to Australia one day!
After two or three red wines I came out hoping I could find my way back to the hotel! I was walking in the street where I had seen the Mozárabe plaque, here I came to a church and two chaps were carrying in a beautiful embroidered cloak. The door being open, I followed them in and asked if I could look around. I was told the church had been badly damaged in a fire 70 years ago and the embroidered cloak had been remade then.
The very one I could now softly touch as it lay draped over the pews, it was magnificent.
The church with its many paintings and effigies of saints was a typical Spanish Catholic Church. This one had a warm and cosy feel about it and as it was dedicated to Santiago I thought this is another fine place to encounter on my first steps of my Camino, probably better than the Mezquita and its hordes of tourists.
I now had to leave and returned to my hotel. On entering I spoke to the lady of the house saying how lovely the patios had been.
"Oh have you seen this one, and this one not far from here" she said as she dragged out a map with them on and gave me. I hadn't of course and decided to go find them as I intended to leave in the morning and if I did I wouldn't get another chance to see them! So out I went once again, and sure enough I found the first that was quite splendid and I took some photos and moved on to the next.
Here I was welcomed with a glass of fine white wine. I was soon chatting and the splendid glass of wine evaporated and was refilled a couple of times and maybe changed to orujo I can't remember! My new friend seemed to be able to drink this excellent strong wine with no affect while I seemed to have trouble keeping my voice down and was making rather noisy conversation! Well it sounds like that when I now replay the short video clip I took while there, chuckle. I said my farewells stating I am off on Camino tomorrow and I returned rather drunk to my hotel and slept well!!!!
May the 7th
By 7am I set off and found the street with the Mozárabe sign. I worked my way through the suburbs by looking for yellow arrows and not so much looking at the book of mine or the maps given to me. It is pretty scruffy as I go under a bridge with graffiti and rubbish. I find a small old bridge that has a yellow arrow but now the book differs from the maps.
I can't remember which I took, and the order of my memories may be wrong as I have few notes on these first days I was so often just worrying if I was at that moment on the right track! I think I crossed the little bridge!
Anyway I remember a dangerous bend on a road near here and trying to get round behind the steel barrier that had hardly enough room for the width of the rucksack as two men walked towards me. One risked the dangerous road, the other decided on the safer choice and waited for me to go by.
I decided to follow arrows rather than either map or book. I came to a marked track and took that. The rucksack on its wheels was ok when on flat tarmac, but stony tracks made it difficult and my arm was soon aching and I now found new aches on my ribcage on the other side. At the junction ahead was a building and a steepish bank and when I got there I noticed the tangle of plants and yellow rape would stop me pulling for sure and I stopped for a drink and then hefted up my rucksack onto my back. It was damn heavy and I struggled up and over the bank past the old farmhouse if that was what it was. I set off across the field following the rutted track pretty sure the better track that had turned in front of it to the right was now running parallel. After a while I'm climbing and the track kept changing from tarmac road to narrow bush track,
and I am having a job to decide what to do! The bush track meant I had to carry the heavy bag, the road had a path I could pull on but I could never be sure it went the same way! I kept changing my mind and seemed to get nowhere, as I kept picking up and putting down every few hundred meters, till at one point I was on the road and realised the track was now defiantly heading away to my right and might not come back! I retraced my steps and took to the bush and pulled when I could but carried most of the time. Then I came up with the idea to put water and some heavy bits on the trolley and that would make the bag easier to carry. It was better, didn’t jam or turn over as often and I made some progress for a while but I was tiring fast. This was hard work!
I passed the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Linares but didn’t go off the track for the stamp (sello), it would have meant taking more steep paths and returning!
It was cold and damp as I stopped under a pine tree at a fork in the track not sure which way to go. I decided to stop for lunch and cook the eggs I had bought in Cordoba, it might help my mind work better if I had food in me. I had to unpack almost all the bag to get at the food and stove! The eggs were there but one was broken but luckily I had them in a plastic bag. I saved the yolk and managed to fry that as the others boiled in the water beneath! The wind was a problem as I cooked on the little metholated stove, but I got my egg and bread roll bocadillo (sandwich)
I crossed a small stream here and set off again. Now it really was up the mountain with bare rock patches that were very steep! This mountain is called the Loma de los Escalones (Hill of steps) I could see why! They were hell to climb with the heavy bag and pulling the trolley! I look back now and realise I was carrying far too much water as it was cold and I was sweating profusely so did need to drink a fair amount and did not know where I could get more. I had already passed one option the Ermita! Each time I came to one of these steps it took everything I had to climb it! Gasping for breath I would place the next foot up the rock and force myself to heave and gain another pace and then heave the trolley up too again and again till I reached where it flattened out a little. Here I would stop for a moment and try to recover. This was too hard for a 70-year-old peregrino I worried! On one of these steps I stopped again and admired the view back down towards Cordoba, it was lovely. Just then three people came down towards me, two men and a young lady. They had only daypacks and I joked that it was easier going down and where was their gear!
"How far are you going' they asked,
"To Santiago. Seems a long way now but I have arrived 5 times by other tracks before" I laughed.
"My! We admire you, I would love to try but finding the time to do it when you are working is impossible."
"Time I have but I still must go home after 7 weeks so I too might skip from Mérida to Zamora as I have walked that before."
As they left I felt their praise and encouragement had cheered me and I felt a little better. 'Yes I could do it" and I put my back into it again! Somewhere along this track I saw the road over to the left and my book said I would meet it later so I clambered over and got onto the hard shoulder and pulled my bag up the hill. It was easier but quite heavy traffic but even if it was longer I felt I was now making progress but it still was hard work. I came to the bend near the top that in my book I was told the camino crossed here. Sure enough I see the familiar yellow arrow and cross over. The path was little used and had tall grasses and ruts so I would have to pick up again. As I bent down I saw a pen and found it worked so I now had two, but I am always loosing them so it joined my pack and added just a little more weight chuckle. This new track was hard climbing and I was sweating profusely as I came over the top but seeing my path now start to descend cheered me but I was terribly tired. I could pull the rucksack most of the way now but there were hills too. Two km more and I came to Cerro Muriano, the second bar was my destination, El Bar H. It was very busy, full of soldiers and most were eating what looked like great meals.
'I could do with some of that I thought!' I ordered a shandy and I asked was there lodging and the cost, suddenly realising I have not much cash as I never found a bank in Cordoba as I left! I could not pay for the room and eat! I explained my situation to the proprietor behind the bar.
"Don't worry, send the money to me when you can, in Santiago if you like" Bruno said smiling!
"I can't do that" I gasped "I must find a bank somewhere"
"OK leave your bag here and then go along the street" he said parking my bag and taking me outside and pointing out where the bank was.
" I think they are still open".
Off I went and sure there was a bank and I pulled on the door and it opened. There was no hole in the wall so I went up to the glass screen and asked could they change some Aus dollars. I was passed to another man and he searches the Internet I presume to find the going rate and after a five-minute wait I got the Euros and happily returned to my busy barman as the bank closed its doors.
Bruno now took me outside again and up some steps and opened a door. We went a short way down a passage and opened another door into a lovely room wafting the smell of new leather.
A large white leather settee, glass-topped table, plus sideboard, all beautifully set out with vases, nice pictures on the walls! I was dumbstruck!
"You'll be the only one here, this is all for you " he said and opened another door into the bedroom, I spot the double bed covered with snow white counterpane
"Bathroom" he said opening a door to the left revealing a spotless shower, toilet and basin! "Is that ok?" he says smiling.
"Wow! Too good" I exclaim!
I ask if I clean up first will I still be able to eat in the restaurant?
"Yes I should think so"
So it was I sat in the restaurant later eating a large plate of veal and chips and washing it down with a good red wine. But on finishing my meal tiredness caught up with me and I text Maisie and retired early to my handsome room! 7am to 3.30pm was not such a long day but this had been very punishing for me and my book said 16km and 3.5 hours!!! Something was radically wrong! I had by walking on the road probably done 20km or more, It felt much more!!!! Even 16km coming up hill over this terrain in 3 and a half hours, impossible!
May the 8th
Cerro Muriano-Villaharta
It was early as I left the town. The bar would be shut today I was told so no breakfast to be had here. I got on quite well pulling the trolley and carrying rucksack but it was tiring. I seem to have stayed mainly on the road for now as look at my new map from Cordoba number two that I still possess, it has a pencil mark on the red road line. I remember I was on road through the town and as I passed the military barracks.
I remember I noted an arrow pointing to a big gate that was part of the military complex. I ignored that one not wanting to get lost in a tank shooting gallery so I stayed on the road again.
Later I was still on the road now confused at a traffic island until I was able to speak to two people jogging down the road. So I went straight on as they told me and I came to Estacion Obejo. I noted it had taken me one hour to get to here that's 3.5 km. So while not fast I was going ok. The next 2.5km were harder as I stayed on the track and this caused more problems with towing. If it was potholes I would have to zigzag around them and this slowed me down. If I hit a rock with one wheel it would tip over twisting my wrist. In some places it was boggy and I would detour around as best I could and I would get onto the road and use that it seemed practicable.
So I was on the road at the junction of the N-432 to Cordoba and here had to back-pedal a short bit to get back onto the track to make sure I was heading in the right direction and not back to Cordoba! Now for some way I heaved and swore as I took this track that looked little used and was flooded in places.
In the end I crossed over to the road again as I could now see it on my right. I had only done about another 3 km's I think from the junction by then. There was some traffic but I got on much better on the tarmac as it ran parallel with the track now. I did try the track again at one point but soon gave up again and came back to the road as a group of cyclists on mountain bikes came through. Even they had problems over the boggy and rocky Camino that I could see from my smooth road! I now arrived at a junction and could see the village of El Vicar. My maps and book differed here and I chose to enter the village to get a coffee and food. The first shop I found was the bakers shop and I went in to buy bread and also on seeing them some yummy cakes full of angels' hair, a very sugary filling that is made from sweet potato I believe. I got in conversation with the lady and she informed me her husband had walked some of the Camino that I hoped to do and I was shown photos and was given a cake to help me on my way. I asked where I could get a coffee and she said sorry we don't do it now you must go to the next bar down the road. I was very impressed with her warm welcome and as I sat in the bar down the street drinking my coffee I decided to return and buy some cheese for lunch and give a koala as a little token of gratitude. So back I went and I asked for the cheese and gave the little koala but I should have guessed for the next thing is she wouldn't let me pay for the cheese, a fine piece of Manchago!
She also told me how to get out of the village and pick up the comino again near the filling station. The road now climbed up into the mountains. Lovely rock roses were everywhere and wild lavender.
It was hard work, much of it on the track unable to use the road before I got to Villaharta. I was still pulling the water and some heave bits and carrying the rucksack. The camino went under the road at one point before I got there past an old pump that was supposed to give water that would cure all ills! To me it looked very polluted (quite rusty in appearance) and I had the impression that the road that now passed close by might be the problem!
A little further on was the stone cross of the village and I laid a small bunch of wild flowers on the base there as I had on many others while walking other caminos. I always felt it somehow helped me make contact with the powers above. A little thank you I suppose!
I now started a steep climb to the village I could see on the mountain. I came onto the tarmac road turned right and shortly after took a left onto the Camino again but it was only to save walking around dangerous bends. So back on the road again tired and thirsty I came to a small park with a playground and a gazebo type building where a number of youngsters were gathered. I needed the water and could see no fountain so I went over to the youngsters and asked them if there was drinking water. On this far side a roller shutter was up and I now saw there was a bar inside and the youngster behind tuning the stereo offered to fill my bottle. I had several to fill and I asked if I could have a coke to drink as well. They were preparing a BBQ fire and smoke pored off two charcoal fires to one side of the opening, two or three more boys were stoking them. I had been a bit nervous about going over at first, thinking young people don’t always welcome old folk to their world. True these joked a little about what was I doing but on being told I was Australian and on Camino were to my surprise very interested and warmed to me. I was soon in conversation with them and I asked if I could join the BBQ with them but they said no sorry, I got the feeling there were parents to consider, and it was not their place to say yes. Anyway I said it didn't matter, I would get something in the village. I told them of my Caminos and we chatted for quite a while and I gave card with my email and blog address to some, one young lass was over the moon, she said she would go look as soon as she got home chuckle. I explained,
"It will be a while, about 6 or seven weeks, before it is updated by me about this Camino but you are welcome to look. My wife is doing her best to keep track of where I am each day as I go and there are many other stories you can read. Some of you speak a little English it might help you with that too!"
When another insisted she pay for my coke I gave her a koala and here was I surrounded by a wonderful bunch of teenagers. I said my goodbyes and waved to them all as I started up the steep track out of the level aria and up onto the road again!
In the village I found a café and had a meat bocadillo and got one wrapped too for later. I liked this little town chuckle! On leaving I passed a house with corn dolls tied to two balconies. 'Must be fiesta or has been one' I thought but on calling over to a lady in the street as I took a photo was informed
"Oh no they are just to keep the pigeons off the balcony"!!! chuckle.
I went over the top of the pass and remember I soon followed a yellow marker that took a track to the left. There were a few more markers but there weren't many. I was not sure of my place on the map but I seemed to be heading in the right direction and should later cross a river.
Well I walked for a long time with mountains on both sides and was a bit worried as to whether I was still on the right track.
To my right I saw a farm but it had two large Pyrenean mountain dogs looking after the sheep in a field and they were loose to circle the house, I couldn't ask there so I went on. I stopped again a little while later as the dogs continued to bark in my direction and then I saw a man come out of the sheds but he was too far away by now to hear me. I was tired, I wasn't going back unless I had too. Deeper into the valley I went, it still seemed right, there were other valleys going off to the right in the distance but I saw no tracks heading their way. When I did came to a small track to my right I looked for arrows but found none. The main track had been recently bulldozed and gently turned left. So I followed that for a kilometre or so then on coming round a curve I saw a farmhouse up on the left and the track swinging around in that direction behind the hill it stood on. As I got nearer and rounded the bend I could see the track fizzled out by the house and went no further! A dog was barking its head off here too, damn I had spotted a flat place where I could have put up the tent if dogs had not been there. Just then I spotted a couple of men and some boys come out of the house. The dog was on a long rope tied to a tree so I thought I would go and ask where I had gone wrong. Another ugly beast full of mange now came across barking but the men told it to be quiet, and I was able to go over to them. "Is there a spot I could camp? I seem to have missed the Camino to Santiago" I asked. It turned out they were just leaving and this was their 'casa del campo' and I listened as they said the ladies like the town so they come here to work, maybe they should have said play! Chuckle. Seeing I looked so tired, one of the boys was sent to get me a beer, I dumped my pack and told my story. They were nice people and said that I was welcome to camp on the flat bit of ground if I wanted, but the idea of the dog barking all night put me off that idea! "You'll have to go back to the last junction," the boys' father said "it branches out through that valley way out over there" he said pointing. "It crosses the river about a kilometre from the junction. It's a nice spot and there would be a good place to camp." Thanking them for the hospitality and beer I gave the youngest a koala. I don't think he was sure about that! It might have been the only soft toy he had ever had chuckle - boys will be boys! Ok, feeling a bit refreshed I hefted up my pack and tugging my trolley waved goodbye set off back the way I had come. At the junction I found the lost yellow arrow painted on a piece of tin in the long grass, it had at one time been nailed to a nearby tree. No wonder I hadn't seen it. I placed it at the edge of the track hoping others might, and went down the other track and through a gate, another arrow!
Sure enough I shortly came to the river. I had food, water and tent and this side of it was a great camping spot but I would have to ford the river in the morning, it would be better if my feet were kept dry in the morning. I should be able to use some stones by the side of the ford.
I put up the tent to the side and took off my boots collected and placed a few more fairly big stones with the others to make the crossing easier hoping it didn't rain in the night and the water get deeper.
Then I stripped off of my long pants and washed in the rather cold river. I'd had sweat running down my back all day and I was having trouble with chafing underwear!
Always a good idea to carry antiseptic powder! chuckle! I then washed as best I could my socks and pants and hung them on a bush to dry. I dressed in clean ones and I found a rock, put it near my tent and put my sandals on the top and sat down to eat my sandwich in the weak sun. I was not feeling very well and not very hungry. It had been a hard day again and I had suffered unusual bouts of indigestion and wind all afternoon but I ate thinking maybe it was just that I needed food to build up my strength again. It looked as if it might rain later but I thought I was far enough away from the river should it storm. I rolled out my sleeping bag and crawled in leaving the tent side facing the river up for ventilation. I soon fell asleep but awoke several times in the night, once or twice it was raining but not hard but I knew my socks would not be dry in the morning!
May the 9th
To Alcaracejos
I dressed in the tent and looked out at the weather, it was dry at the moment I should hurry and collect my things and take down the tent and dry it as best I could, and pack it away.
All packed and with the clean but wet socks on the outside of my pack I went to look at the river crossing.
I threw in a few more stones then carried over the trolley and its water bottles and came back for the rucksack without getting my boots wet! Well! they were on the rucksack, chuckle but that river water was cold to my poor feet!
Once on the other side again I sat and dried my feet and pulled on my boots, hefted up the rucksack and pulling the trolley in my left hand, set off up the hill! At the time I thought it must be because I was still tired after yesterday's long hike but I am sure not having much breakfast and having no coffee did not help me much! I was really struggling to get up that hill, which seemed never ending. I had to stop to put on my waterproof cape when a heavy shower came down. My belly was complaining each step, I was belching wind almost continuously and I felt quite ill by the time I did get to the top.
It had stopped raining but I saw little relief ahead as the track went on with hills and dales into the distance under a cloudy sky. Feeling worse as the time went on I really began to worry. I knew I had been over doing things, 'and now your paying for it' I thought! I was walking very slow and had little idea how far I had gone when, on coming to a wider track, I looked at the book and I decided I must be on the right one. I could see from here, for a while at least, it would be easier to pull a fully loaded trolley. I took off the rucksack and repacked it with the water and stuff and fitted it back onto the trolley and set off pulling it.
My mobile buzzed and after a couple failed attempts, my B…. mobile decided to let me answer it! I heard Maisie's voice, I tried to not sound too worried but told her all was fine, and how nice the river camping had been and that I was hoping for a good day!
When I rang off I walked slowly down the gentle slope of the best gravel track I had been on in a long time. The trolley pulled ok downhill but I was now feeling all alone, cold and very sick and missing her terribly and wondering how I could possibly make Alcaracejos, that's approximately 30k with no possibility of even a coffee to sustain me. There were no other villages marked on the map or mentioned in the book. Sure a few old farmhouses might be out there and some ruins were mentioned, but from where I was, it looked all hills and scrub with this track leading to nowhere! There was another reason I had to reach Alcaracejos, I had arranged to meet a dear friend of mine there tomorrow afternoon!
I stopped for a moment and took a photo of the hill I had just come down where I had been when Maisie had phoned. I was just starting to set off again when a four-wheel drive came over the same hill. It stopped alongside me, there were two men inside the driver asked where I was going! I told them I was walking to Santiago Compostela but stated I would love a ride as I was feeling very sick. They immediately jumped out and stuffed my pack in the back and told me to get in the other side! Who says prayers aren't answered!
We stopped after a few kilometres by a dilapidated small stone farmhouse where there stood another vehicle. The guy in the passenger's seat got out and said goodbye to both of us and we drove off again. Shortly afterwards my transport took to a tarmac track and then onto a main road, I think it was the N-502. Anyway in a short while we drove into the small town of Alcaracejos. Pulling over in the narrow street my saviour said he would stop here to let me out and just ahead on the right was a café where I could eat and they might have rooms or at least tell me where I might find lodgings. I got out and he quickly unloaded my bag and I thanked him as best I could and gave him my card so that he might follow my trip on the Internet if he felt inclined. I waved goodbye as he drove off, leaving me hoping he hadn't gone too far out of his way to bring me here. I stand amazed, I am here in Alcaracejos 30 kms further on in less than thirty minutes!!!! Tugging my pack, I walked down the street and into the bar.
After a coffee I asked about lodgings and was told they had a Hostel across the road and the proprietor took me across and opened up the building to show me the rooms. I was taken upstairs and down a long corridor and into a comfortable enough room with a balcony facing the street and café.
It had two firm single beds and a nice clean bathroom adjoining. I tried to get the price down but was assured 17e was the cheapest it could be!
I was still thinking as to what things cost last time I was in Spain and that was three years ago! A visit back to the café and I took it! Of course it was cheap but I guess I was hoping for something even cheaper if I could find it as I had so many days in front of me to pay for, before I got that flight home! He took my passport number and details and I paid up and went back and settled in and rested till about 3pm when I again crossed the road again to eat in the restaurant. I ate well and the food was nice and a glass of red cheered me up, but I was trying to decide how I was going to be able to carry on. I went back to my room, I came over ill again and knew it was the same as before, not the good food I had just eaten. I text my friend saying I felt ill and was told to ask for the Central de Salude! I thanked her but replied I would take her advice if things didn't get any better. I decided it would help if I stopped worrying about the trip and I decided I had to get some weight out of my pack, getting rid of the tent seemed the only option!
I went through my gear took out the tent, poles, pegs etc, the spirit cooker and all that went with it. I sorted through my clothes again, out came one long sleeve shirt and a T-shirt. I would estimate about three kilos.
I was to regret later sending both the last two as I now only had the one warm thermal T-shirt under shirt that I was wearing. Maybe I was still hoping that the Spanish summer would come in a day or two, as my last trip through Mérida had been so baking hot and I was heading in that direction!!
I was also forgetting the long sleeve one I happened to be wearing was many caminos old and at the end of its life! The shirt I posted was the best fitting one of the three I had, warmer and almost new!
I packed all into a strong plastic bag and tied it around with string. It was not a parcel I could post but I hoped I could get it put in a box or get it wrapped properly at an 'estancos' or the post office. I now went to bed and wondered what tomorrow would bring!
Note My sickness, whatever it was, was like having chronic indigestion with all the associated pains and wind, which escaped wherever it could and moving one leg in front of the other increased its likelihood of escaping!
May the 10th
Alcaracejos
On getting up I was determined the first and most important thing was to get the rucksack weight down. I repacked all again chuckle but it all stayed about the same! I thought it was a bit too early for the post office to be open, so next was for me to go out and find out if there was one! I crossed the road to the café Tic-Tac and took a street on that side near where I had been dropped off yesterday. In a square a few streets behind the café I found the town hall (ayuntamiento). There was and a lot of building work and a small office to the left of it, but this office looked like the post office or what was left of it. The door was heavily barred and all was locked but a small card said open at 8.30am and it wasn't 8am yet. I guessed a small town in this day and age would not need a big building so it could still be in use. Ok, that was easy I would come back later. I now carried on around the streets to find out if there was a chemist (Farmacia).
While I was feeling much better this morning I still thought I should try to get something to reduce my wind and tummy rumbles. It had quite scared me yesterday! I was unsuccessful finding the Farmacia but I found a bakers shop and bought a cake for breakfast and one for tomorrow when I left. I asked if there was a Farmacia
"Yes, the opposite side of the street a bit further down." I was told.
I walked by it twice without seeing it until I asked a lady road sweeper! I was of course almost standing outside it! Ok, the sign was high up chuckle, and the solid blue door closed! Pinned on the door was the opening time, I needed to come back here too! I had plenty of time, Mari had text to meet at 2.30pm. I wasn’t sure if the butterflies in my stomach were from my wind troubles or excitement at seeing her after such a long time. Just then the door opened and a rather attractive young lady smiled at me while she obviously opened the shop.
Now I have more problems, my poor Spanish has many words, but few verbs and it runs into trouble when attempting to describe belly pains and wind problems to a charming young lady even if she is wearing a white coat! Anyway, a little embarrassed, I struggle on and she is about to hand me the prescription when she asked,
"Are you taking any medication?"
As I have half a kilo of the damn things in my pack I say
"Yes"
"What are they?"
I'm expected to know some six or seven medications in Spanish!
I know I have a list somewhere on me but I couldn’t find it, but I know there's another list in my rucksack back at the Hostel. I apologise for wasting her time and say I will return shortly with a list!
She smiles, puts me at ease and serves another customer that has been waiting.
I walk back to the Hostel, find the list and the one I had on me! I cross the road and get a badly needed coffee!
At almost half past eight I start again heading for the post office. It wasn't open but a guy behind the glass door of the ayuntamiento said any moment pointing at his watch. Another customer arrived, looked at the time on the door, then at her watch and left. Before long I saw movement inside, it looks as if I am not wasting my time and five minutes later the door was open. Great, I grasp my parcel, enter and go to the glass screen and explain I want to send this package to Madrid.
"Not like that" the man said firmly "it must be wrapped properly!"
"I realise that, could you tell me where I could get it done, an Estanco maybe?
I find the busy lady on his left has now taken me over!
"Well we have some boxes but they might be rather large" she say "if you could fit it together?" The man was sent to fish out the flat pack boxes and I chose the smallest that in this form looked much too big, but I think I could cut it to fit with my penknife. A roll of sticky tape appears and I had a big felt tip pen with me! I retire to the rear and start unfolding the box!
Amazingly it fits my parcel perfectly, I tape it together and fill in the address labels, get out my wallet and go back to the lady. All's fine, I needed my passport of course but that I had on me. On go the stamps, "hooray" my heavy weight is on its way! It had hardly occurred to me that now I had no shelter should I not be able to reach the next albergue! For example I would have been stumped just yesterday without it! At this moment all I thought of was, with less weight I shall be able to cope and go on!
Pills next, I went round the corner and found my white coated young lady and showed her my list of pills.
I explain I am hoping to walk to Santiago de Compostela but this wind problem of mine is giving me problems. I think she was impressed and also felt that with this list of pills it was a wonder I should attempt to walk to the corner shop!
I go back to my room and take a new pill! I have to take them 3 times a day and know I will be sure to forget some. I have enough of a problem now, I have one lot that I take in the evening and morning and to do that I had to set an alarm on my phone! 'OK I'm supposed to take this new pill at meal times!' Oh dear! I remember Mari said she will come for lunch. Where am I going to take her?!'
The Tic-Tac restaurant across the road is ok but I would like something a little nicer if there is a place in town.
I go out again and look around the main street. Then I find a lady on a side street and ask her, explaining I have a Spanish friend coming to see me and wanted a nice place to take her to lunch.
"There is one on the main road a bit further down. It's very nice I'm sure it will please her' she said with a glint in her eye.
I thank her and go and look. There was a canvas covered area on the pavement outside but it was defiantly too cold to eat there today. The barman chatted to me as I looked in and I found out what time they serve lunch. He was nice and the place was busy with all Spanish people and it looked pleasant, although I noticed the restaurant was actually upstairs. I said I'd be back later for lunch with a friend and returned to my room.
I knew I should relax and rest and I tried but I was excited. Mari was bringing her two daughters and it would be lovely to see Mari and Paz, her oldest daughter, again after so long, Both are charming, Paz is a very beautiful girl in her early twenties that would turn any young man's head!
At the time we met, we had all been in an albergue on the way to Compostela. I was walking with Mark, an English lad. I chose a bunk the opposite side of the room to Mari, Paz and Marta a niece I think, who was walking with them. Their Camino had only started that day I believe. It was the time to compare blisters chuckle. I tried to help by telling them things I had found helpful on my long walk from Cordoba, Seville and up the Vía del Plata. That year I had suffered badly with them!
I remember none of us slept much that night, as an automatic light switched on and off every time someone went to the toilet or even moved. Some peregrinos left at 4 am too! I think because they could not sleep!
We met again on the track several times and became friends and still are over the Internet today.
I had never met little Paula but had seen photos of the smiling young girl.
I went back down to the bar and had another coffee. I wasn't sure where we would meet but I'd text the Tic-Tac café. I now wondered about that, suddenly it occurred to me, maybe it wasn't quite the right thing to do in Spain, to meet in a crowded bar! I went to the door and into the street just as they drove up and parked. Wonderful, timed to the second I thought, I went across and as they got out I could see they were as overjoyed as I was to meet again. Little Paula was a mass of smiles too and much taller than I imagined.
Paz said she knew the town and could recommend of a place to eat if that was OK with me. It turned out to be the place I had been recommended!
Mari ordered and recommended that I to try stew on the menu, as she knew I loved to try different Spanish foods as we have been swapping recipes over the Internet at times. I answered a barrage of questions as to how my camino had gone so far. I tried to be honest and Mari said,
"There I told you, didn’t I, I said it would be a very hard camino!"
I chuckled,
"The problem is me getting older, it's been cold and wet, and there are no markers where you need them! I am 70 you know!"
Paz didn't know, and flattered me by saying,
"You don’t look it."
From such a pretty lady too, chuckle.
My mobile rang just as we were finishing eating, it was great to hear Maisie. I told her I was feeling much better and I knew she might like to speak to Mari and Paz on the phone. I passed the phone to Paz first, as I know she speaks good English, probably better than Maisie's Spanish these days. Then over to Mari who assured Maisie I hadn't drunk too much wine while looking at an almost dry bottle of fine red wine, that she had hardly touched, as she was the driver!
The lovely meal over we left the restaurant and I was now invited to go with them and see the village where Paz worked, as Alcaracejos was not the prettiest of towns but Dos Torres, was worth a visit.
We climbed into the car and away we went, and were shortly parking the car in the village of Dos Torres.
Here I was taken down the narrow streets and into the main square.
There had been a fiesta and a bullring had been set up using old carts for the people stands, now they were all around the square waiting to be collected.
We played about taking snap shots then went in a bar for a wine and one orange for my favourite young girl with the smile, Paula.
Sadly all good things have to come to an end and we had to go back and say our goodbyes. My dear friends said they would try one day to come and see my family and me in Australia. I gave three little koalas and Mari surprised me when she said
"We have a present for you too!"
I was presented with enough packs of chorizo and Spanish ham to last a Peregrino till he got to Santiago chuckle! My rucksack weight was already rising but I was very touched by their thoughtful present. A Peregrino needs to eat!
I waved goodbye and watched them go, wishing it could have been longer but that's life I guess. I do hope that we will meet again sometime. Until then we have text and the use of the Internet.
I prepared my stuff ready to leave in the morning and then, to use some time up, I walked the street to find where the first arrows were for my start tomorrow. I didn't have to go far, and found it Ok. There was a cold breeze now so I returned!
I wandered down to the Hostel foyer later, before turning in for the night, to take a look at the street. It was now wet in the pouring rain! The weather was back to normal I thought, but I felt better, things had gone well today. I'd had a lovely time! Standing in the doorway, the lights looked so pretty in the rain, I would set off tomorrow at 7am whatever!
There were a times when feeling sick or trying to sleep against a haystack or on hard concrete, or just lost in the cold rain somewhere, I would wonder if I would make it home!
I now sit here surrounded by bits of scribble on scraps of paper and on the back of maps, some bits just disappeared. You see sometimes, (usually when lost,) I could not seem to find the time to write notes or even use the camera. I would miss some beautiful views and details that now I have no record of except those in my head.
The only way I can tell this story is go back to the start just before I left and from there try to remember what happened and where and try to piece it all together!
.
My rucksack in the last week was fitted with wheels that I had altered from a trolley I had found that had been made to carry lawn bowls! I had fitted it with removable and bigger wheels so that when fitted to the rucksack I could tow it, leaving all the straps free on the other side.
I did find I had to strap the waist-belt to the pack with a quick release strap to stop my flask and water bottle touching the floor when being pulled but it seemed to work OK! I could just turn it around, undo that strap and pick it up onto my back without removing the wheels. I finished it with just enough time for a couple of practice runs around my walk by the river path and across some rough grass areas. Unfortunately there are no rocky potholed paths here that I could try it on. The trolley was packed into the bag's outside pocket for on the aeroplane and all wrapped in cling wrap. I was ready to go and I hope this works.
May the 4th
Maisie and I drove to the airport and we had a coffee there and all too soon it's hugs and kisses and I'm waving to Maisie as I go through to the passport control! My heart is pounding, tears are in my eyes, I'm sad yet so excited, the time has come again. I am to risk all for a crazy passion of mine to walk Camino again! What will happen this time?
All goes according to schedule and I'm soon airborne and heading out over Perth and my home and my love. I'm once again bound for the sunny skies of Spain and the unknown tracks out of Cordoba.I arrive in Singapore on time. I had sat next to and chatted to an English lady who was going back leaving a daughter here who will also return to England in 6 weeks time. I have been through that and know how stressful it can be, only to return two years later. I wonder to myself if she will? Hours later the plane descends and we have a good landing. I set off on the long walk to gate D84. On arrival it is not open but I was lucky and found a seat outside in the wide hallway, here I received and sent text to Maisie. She had followed the flight on the computer and told me of my friends and family who had wished me well. The next stage is the longest and the seat seems made of concrete by the time I land at Paris.
May the 5th
I know I have little time to catch the next flight to Madrid which leaves from the other terminal! After a long walk I find big queues and confusing signs and hundreds of people in those zig-zag tape lines waiting to get through passport control. There is no way of knowing what queue I should be in, so I join what I think is the shortest one and shuffle forward every few minutes continually looking at my watch. At last I get to the end and its my turn, my English passport is ok. I hurry through only to find now it’s the baggage check. I throw in the tray my little hand luggage bag full of my clothes and essentials. Off comes my camera and trouser belt (I start to step forward) "Phone" someone says, off that comes from around my neck,
"Empty pockets"
Now my waistcoat has some 6 pockets on the sides and 2 on the back as made by the makers. My own alterations added three inside + three secret ones.
This contains foreign money Aus, Singapore $ and Euros plus all the maps and books for my walk, the best part of a kilo, there was some in my trousers too. I can't unload that, it would take me a week to re fill it! I heave it off and put that in a tray
"Empty pockets"
I had changed my socks on the plane and as I wear two pair that’s four smelly socks, which are stuffed in my trouser pockets together with money in 2 wallets. I struggle to get it all out of the trousers! Each pocket, has a pair of other pockets neatly made so as not to notice! All are now filled with the smelly socks and they all have to be emptied one at a time as the pants are tight fitting! Another tray!!!! I go to move again.
"Boots" he says "
Off come the boots! By now I know I am running out of time! I go through, no bells ring so I hurry to replace the boots, waistcoat, belt and camera and hurry off. I get to the gate and there is no plane waiting! I look around and disappointed see a stand with staff sorting out tickets for others so I join the queue and soon get to the desk and all is fairly simple. I am booked to catch the next flight. I move off and suddenly realise I have no wallet! Hell! I must have left it behind and now I can't get back through to get it!!! I go up to the desk and grab a big important looking guy and gabble out I had left my wallet at the check in! He takes me downstairs and back to the check-in-area and has a few words with the staff and I am handed the wallet and some bits in a plastic bag. I'm so relieved, I go upstairs again and start to put things away! Oh no the socks and my pen are not there! If I don't find them I will have trouble with blisters walking I know! I could buy new ones but the hope of buying socks that wick away sweat like those is very remote! I sheepishly go up to the guy again and explain now it's my socks! He sends me down again, this time I am given a waist high open weave rubbish bin to hunt through! Head and shoulders inside the bin I search through rubbish till I find them! Yes I eventually got on a flight that left at 9.30 and chatted to a man who had travelled some years back in Africa as well as Spain and wonder if it was as stressful then!! I'm not sure if I should be out on my own, let alone wandering across Spain!
I arrive in Madrid and look for the Metro and while I walk there, down the long halls, I try to remember how it all works! I see a booth and am sold a one-stop ticket. As long as I don't leave the metro and just change lines, that covers the trip. I need the Plaza del Sol. A couple of line changes later with my rucksack on its wheels, all goes well as the metro is not crowded. I climb the last stairs and I'm in the Plaza del Sol and look around! It looks different but I think it's because I have come up at a different corner. Now to get in touch with Amador, I'm hoping the mobile works here as it's supposed too! I had already text Masie and that worked.
How will he find me? Ok I will sit by the fountain, that’s a huge water cascading bowl and with my rucksack, funny hat and two walking staffs I must stand out from the other people like a sore thumb! I make the phone call and to my surprise it's him and I am told to wait there till he comes. A while later I see Amador as he sees me and I am given a strong hug of welcome, the warm abrazo of the Spanish people! Before I can stop him he grabs my rucksack handle and wheels it away and we cross over and catch a bus. I am told the number, the streets and where to get off and on. As normal for me I soon forget them chuckle, but I won't need them till I come back and that seems in the far distant future. I will worry about that when the time comes. After all I have wandered about this city some years ago and I have a map with roads marked as well as the metro! The whole city can't be as confusing as Paris airport, can it?We get off the bus a few steps from their apartment and soon the flat door is opened and I am introduced to the small dog that greets us excitedly and rolls over when his master tells him, knowing there are a few treats in Amador's hand. Now the boss! "Slowly let him smell your hand" I am cautioned. I carefully do as Amador says and the Siamese cat gives me the once over and sniffs my fingers and as long as I don’t move my hand away before he turns to go, I am safe from his razor sharp claws! Ok I am safe now and Amador shows me my room and where everything is and we chat over a coffee. Later Antonia comes home from work and after chatting about my plans for this camino and about when we met and walked on my first one, it is decided that we all go for a walk and see some of the city and have a meal in a gorgeous Galician bar. Here I am treated to peppers de Padron and pulpo on a wooden platter with huge pieces of the crusty bread and a fine Rioja wine
May the 6th
I slept well at Antonia's and Amador kindly took me to the train station next morning. There are long queues for tickets and Amador gets in one line and I take the other,
"First to the counter" he laughs. It turns out it was me and Amador comes across and helps me get the ticket to Cordoba.
At the gate we say goodbye and I thank him for having me and I am told to ring when I get to Zamorra, they'll come to meet me there for a day or two. I go through and look for the train on line 12 only to find a railway guard rush after me and get me on the right train! 12 was the carriage!!! chuckle.The trip was pleasant. A family with a pair of twin girls kept us all amused.
I arrived at the station in Cordoba that I now did not recognise! I found the tourist office and got a map. On leaving the building Maisie phoned me and that was nice and encouraging.
12.30 I looked around and found a street name and stood and worked out the way to the old part of town.
It was a reasonable way off but I soon passed alongside the wall of the old part
and after getting around a lot of roadwork's and restoration scaffolding blocking the road,
I found the Roman river bridge. I walked across it intending to start my Camino from the other side and walk back. I reminisced how I had driven across this bridge a few times, the first time was in 1957 with my father driving, then in the 60's with Maisie and the two children and her uncle and my mother-in-law. I remembered that time with a chuckle to myself. I had driven across slowly in an old 4L Reno I owned then, it was night and few street lights! I had not seen the open drain at the end with no cover, I had suddenly lost the front wheel down it chuckle! By getting the family on the back corner we managed to get it out. I smile to myself, I could not recognise the spot but it must have been just at this far end I mused.
Today only people can walk across the bridge and there was a lot of work going on the town side. It is a magnificent bridge and one imagines the Roman legions marching across to march up the roads for hundreds of kilometres to the north as I was hoping to do!
On the far side now I stopped and took photos and thought it would be a good time to eat, as I was hungry.
I asked a local man for a restaurant where I could eat good and cheap and was pointed to a busy little bar a little further on. I decided this would be a good place to start from chuckle! I ordered two rations of tapas, a potato salad and a red pepper dish and a shandy. No wine today, I wanted a clear head as I took these first steps!
My hunger satisfied, I left and went back to the bridge but now I chose to walk this side of the river and cross over a new bridge that had a great view of the old Roman one, after all I had crossed the bridge one way.
I took photos and soon was back on the old town side. I wandered around the streets and found the San Pedro bar I needed where I hoped to get the credential but found would have too return at 8pm! I now went to look for an albergue. I found myself in a rough looking area and was a bit worried about getting mugged, everywhere seemed full and the only albergue I could find was behind a high wall with big locked iron gates. there seemed no other entrance, well I couldn't find it anyway. I wandered back to the river and found the Molino hotel at 50e. Well it was in a good position being just two streets away from where I had seen the tile Mozárabe camino signs high up on the wall.
I booked into the little hotel and took the few steps up to my room and unloaded my bag. I freshened up and left my bag and went back into town.The Mezquita was very busy and it cost 8 Euro to enter and I know I should have paid but for some daft reason I objected to hunt out the ticket office and return and join the queue of tourists with noisy school kids etc. Ok, I photographed the outside and gateways as I had done some years before.
So now I walked the narrow streets looking in patios not realising it was the 'week of the patios' and therefore all were open to the public. They were wonderful, so colourful but I had no company and felt a bit alone.
As it was a bit hot and clammy and I was suffering a bit of jet lag, I came back to the hotel and had a siesta.
At 8 pm I returned to San Pedro Square to get the credential. This time I was shown up to an upstairs room and was successful, they also gave me a lot of maps and some more information. I was informed what I had copied and translated from the Internet has been changed! The pleasant chap proceeded to draw lines all over the pages with comments like 'you now turn left before the bridge' etc. I finished up with a very colourful lot of maps that contained little helpful information and my book that I now knew was likely to be wrong! I went down to the bar below and had a long chat with a guy over few wines. Before long he had me chatting on his mobile with video cam to his girlfriend in another bar she was working in, all because they were thinking of coming to Australia one day!
After two or three red wines I came out hoping I could find my way back to the hotel! I was walking in the street where I had seen the Mozárabe plaque, here I came to a church and two chaps were carrying in a beautiful embroidered cloak. The door being open, I followed them in and asked if I could look around. I was told the church had been badly damaged in a fire 70 years ago and the embroidered cloak had been remade then.
The very one I could now softly touch as it lay draped over the pews, it was magnificent.
The church with its many paintings and effigies of saints was a typical Spanish Catholic Church. This one had a warm and cosy feel about it and as it was dedicated to Santiago I thought this is another fine place to encounter on my first steps of my Camino, probably better than the Mezquita and its hordes of tourists.
I now had to leave and returned to my hotel. On entering I spoke to the lady of the house saying how lovely the patios had been.
"Oh have you seen this one, and this one not far from here" she said as she dragged out a map with them on and gave me. I hadn't of course and decided to go find them as I intended to leave in the morning and if I did I wouldn't get another chance to see them! So out I went once again, and sure enough I found the first that was quite splendid and I took some photos and moved on to the next.
Here I was welcomed with a glass of fine white wine. I was soon chatting and the splendid glass of wine evaporated and was refilled a couple of times and maybe changed to orujo I can't remember! My new friend seemed to be able to drink this excellent strong wine with no affect while I seemed to have trouble keeping my voice down and was making rather noisy conversation! Well it sounds like that when I now replay the short video clip I took while there, chuckle. I said my farewells stating I am off on Camino tomorrow and I returned rather drunk to my hotel and slept well!!!!
May the 7th
By 7am I set off and found the street with the Mozárabe sign. I worked my way through the suburbs by looking for yellow arrows and not so much looking at the book of mine or the maps given to me. It is pretty scruffy as I go under a bridge with graffiti and rubbish. I find a small old bridge that has a yellow arrow but now the book differs from the maps.
I can't remember which I took, and the order of my memories may be wrong as I have few notes on these first days I was so often just worrying if I was at that moment on the right track! I think I crossed the little bridge!
Anyway I remember a dangerous bend on a road near here and trying to get round behind the steel barrier that had hardly enough room for the width of the rucksack as two men walked towards me. One risked the dangerous road, the other decided on the safer choice and waited for me to go by.
I decided to follow arrows rather than either map or book. I came to a marked track and took that. The rucksack on its wheels was ok when on flat tarmac, but stony tracks made it difficult and my arm was soon aching and I now found new aches on my ribcage on the other side. At the junction ahead was a building and a steepish bank and when I got there I noticed the tangle of plants and yellow rape would stop me pulling for sure and I stopped for a drink and then hefted up my rucksack onto my back. It was damn heavy and I struggled up and over the bank past the old farmhouse if that was what it was. I set off across the field following the rutted track pretty sure the better track that had turned in front of it to the right was now running parallel. After a while I'm climbing and the track kept changing from tarmac road to narrow bush track,
and I am having a job to decide what to do! The bush track meant I had to carry the heavy bag, the road had a path I could pull on but I could never be sure it went the same way! I kept changing my mind and seemed to get nowhere, as I kept picking up and putting down every few hundred meters, till at one point I was on the road and realised the track was now defiantly heading away to my right and might not come back! I retraced my steps and took to the bush and pulled when I could but carried most of the time. Then I came up with the idea to put water and some heavy bits on the trolley and that would make the bag easier to carry. It was better, didn’t jam or turn over as often and I made some progress for a while but I was tiring fast. This was hard work!
I passed the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Linares but didn’t go off the track for the stamp (sello), it would have meant taking more steep paths and returning!
It was cold and damp as I stopped under a pine tree at a fork in the track not sure which way to go. I decided to stop for lunch and cook the eggs I had bought in Cordoba, it might help my mind work better if I had food in me. I had to unpack almost all the bag to get at the food and stove! The eggs were there but one was broken but luckily I had them in a plastic bag. I saved the yolk and managed to fry that as the others boiled in the water beneath! The wind was a problem as I cooked on the little metholated stove, but I got my egg and bread roll bocadillo (sandwich)I crossed a small stream here and set off again. Now it really was up the mountain with bare rock patches that were very steep! This mountain is called the Loma de los Escalones (Hill of steps) I could see why! They were hell to climb with the heavy bag and pulling the trolley! I look back now and realise I was carrying far too much water as it was cold and I was sweating profusely so did need to drink a fair amount and did not know where I could get more. I had already passed one option the Ermita! Each time I came to one of these steps it took everything I had to climb it! Gasping for breath I would place the next foot up the rock and force myself to heave and gain another pace and then heave the trolley up too again and again till I reached where it flattened out a little. Here I would stop for a moment and try to recover. This was too hard for a 70-year-old peregrino I worried! On one of these steps I stopped again and admired the view back down towards Cordoba, it was lovely. Just then three people came down towards me, two men and a young lady. They had only daypacks and I joked that it was easier going down and where was their gear!
"How far are you going' they asked,
"To Santiago. Seems a long way now but I have arrived 5 times by other tracks before" I laughed.
"My! We admire you, I would love to try but finding the time to do it when you are working is impossible."
"Time I have but I still must go home after 7 weeks so I too might skip from Mérida to Zamora as I have walked that before."
As they left I felt their praise and encouragement had cheered me and I felt a little better. 'Yes I could do it" and I put my back into it again! Somewhere along this track I saw the road over to the left and my book said I would meet it later so I clambered over and got onto the hard shoulder and pulled my bag up the hill. It was easier but quite heavy traffic but even if it was longer I felt I was now making progress but it still was hard work. I came to the bend near the top that in my book I was told the camino crossed here. Sure enough I see the familiar yellow arrow and cross over. The path was little used and had tall grasses and ruts so I would have to pick up again. As I bent down I saw a pen and found it worked so I now had two, but I am always loosing them so it joined my pack and added just a little more weight chuckle. This new track was hard climbing and I was sweating profusely as I came over the top but seeing my path now start to descend cheered me but I was terribly tired. I could pull the rucksack most of the way now but there were hills too. Two km more and I came to Cerro Muriano, the second bar was my destination, El Bar H. It was very busy, full of soldiers and most were eating what looked like great meals.
'I could do with some of that I thought!' I ordered a shandy and I asked was there lodging and the cost, suddenly realising I have not much cash as I never found a bank in Cordoba as I left! I could not pay for the room and eat! I explained my situation to the proprietor behind the bar.
"Don't worry, send the money to me when you can, in Santiago if you like" Bruno said smiling!
"I can't do that" I gasped "I must find a bank somewhere"
"OK leave your bag here and then go along the street" he said parking my bag and taking me outside and pointing out where the bank was.
" I think they are still open".
Off I went and sure there was a bank and I pulled on the door and it opened. There was no hole in the wall so I went up to the glass screen and asked could they change some Aus dollars. I was passed to another man and he searches the Internet I presume to find the going rate and after a five-minute wait I got the Euros and happily returned to my busy barman as the bank closed its doors.
Bruno now took me outside again and up some steps and opened a door. We went a short way down a passage and opened another door into a lovely room wafting the smell of new leather.
A large white leather settee, glass-topped table, plus sideboard, all beautifully set out with vases, nice pictures on the walls! I was dumbstruck!"You'll be the only one here, this is all for you " he said and opened another door into the bedroom, I spot the double bed covered with snow white counterpane
"Bathroom" he said opening a door to the left revealing a spotless shower, toilet and basin! "Is that ok?" he says smiling.
"Wow! Too good" I exclaim!
I ask if I clean up first will I still be able to eat in the restaurant?
"Yes I should think so"
So it was I sat in the restaurant later eating a large plate of veal and chips and washing it down with a good red wine. But on finishing my meal tiredness caught up with me and I text Maisie and retired early to my handsome room! 7am to 3.30pm was not such a long day but this had been very punishing for me and my book said 16km and 3.5 hours!!! Something was radically wrong! I had by walking on the road probably done 20km or more, It felt much more!!!! Even 16km coming up hill over this terrain in 3 and a half hours, impossible!
May the 8th
Cerro Muriano-Villaharta
It was early as I left the town. The bar would be shut today I was told so no breakfast to be had here. I got on quite well pulling the trolley and carrying rucksack but it was tiring. I seem to have stayed mainly on the road for now as look at my new map from Cordoba number two that I still possess, it has a pencil mark on the red road line. I remember I was on road through the town and as I passed the military barracks.
I remember I noted an arrow pointing to a big gate that was part of the military complex. I ignored that one not wanting to get lost in a tank shooting gallery so I stayed on the road again.Later I was still on the road now confused at a traffic island until I was able to speak to two people jogging down the road. So I went straight on as they told me and I came to Estacion Obejo. I noted it had taken me one hour to get to here that's 3.5 km. So while not fast I was going ok. The next 2.5km were harder as I stayed on the track and this caused more problems with towing. If it was potholes I would have to zigzag around them and this slowed me down. If I hit a rock with one wheel it would tip over twisting my wrist. In some places it was boggy and I would detour around as best I could and I would get onto the road and use that it seemed practicable.
So I was on the road at the junction of the N-432 to Cordoba and here had to back-pedal a short bit to get back onto the track to make sure I was heading in the right direction and not back to Cordoba! Now for some way I heaved and swore as I took this track that looked little used and was flooded in places.
In the end I crossed over to the road again as I could now see it on my right. I had only done about another 3 km's I think from the junction by then. There was some traffic but I got on much better on the tarmac as it ran parallel with the track now. I did try the track again at one point but soon gave up again and came back to the road as a group of cyclists on mountain bikes came through. Even they had problems over the boggy and rocky Camino that I could see from my smooth road! I now arrived at a junction and could see the village of El Vicar. My maps and book differed here and I chose to enter the village to get a coffee and food. The first shop I found was the bakers shop and I went in to buy bread and also on seeing them some yummy cakes full of angels' hair, a very sugary filling that is made from sweet potato I believe. I got in conversation with the lady and she informed me her husband had walked some of the Camino that I hoped to do and I was shown photos and was given a cake to help me on my way. I asked where I could get a coffee and she said sorry we don't do it now you must go to the next bar down the road. I was very impressed with her warm welcome and as I sat in the bar down the street drinking my coffee I decided to return and buy some cheese for lunch and give a koala as a little token of gratitude. So back I went and I asked for the cheese and gave the little koala but I should have guessed for the next thing is she wouldn't let me pay for the cheese, a fine piece of Manchago!She also told me how to get out of the village and pick up the comino again near the filling station. The road now climbed up into the mountains. Lovely rock roses were everywhere and wild lavender.
It was hard work, much of it on the track unable to use the road before I got to Villaharta. I was still pulling the water and some heave bits and carrying the rucksack. The camino went under the road at one point before I got there past an old pump that was supposed to give water that would cure all ills! To me it looked very polluted (quite rusty in appearance) and I had the impression that the road that now passed close by might be the problem!
A little further on was the stone cross of the village and I laid a small bunch of wild flowers on the base there as I had on many others while walking other caminos. I always felt it somehow helped me make contact with the powers above. A little thank you I suppose!
I now started a steep climb to the village I could see on the mountain. I came onto the tarmac road turned right and shortly after took a left onto the Camino again but it was only to save walking around dangerous bends. So back on the road again tired and thirsty I came to a small park with a playground and a gazebo type building where a number of youngsters were gathered. I needed the water and could see no fountain so I went over to the youngsters and asked them if there was drinking water. On this far side a roller shutter was up and I now saw there was a bar inside and the youngster behind tuning the stereo offered to fill my bottle. I had several to fill and I asked if I could have a coke to drink as well. They were preparing a BBQ fire and smoke pored off two charcoal fires to one side of the opening, two or three more boys were stoking them. I had been a bit nervous about going over at first, thinking young people don’t always welcome old folk to their world. True these joked a little about what was I doing but on being told I was Australian and on Camino were to my surprise very interested and warmed to me. I was soon in conversation with them and I asked if I could join the BBQ with them but they said no sorry, I got the feeling there were parents to consider, and it was not their place to say yes. Anyway I said it didn't matter, I would get something in the village. I told them of my Caminos and we chatted for quite a while and I gave card with my email and blog address to some, one young lass was over the moon, she said she would go look as soon as she got home chuckle. I explained,
"It will be a while, about 6 or seven weeks, before it is updated by me about this Camino but you are welcome to look. My wife is doing her best to keep track of where I am each day as I go and there are many other stories you can read. Some of you speak a little English it might help you with that too!"
When another insisted she pay for my coke I gave her a koala and here was I surrounded by a wonderful bunch of teenagers. I said my goodbyes and waved to them all as I started up the steep track out of the level aria and up onto the road again!
In the village I found a café and had a meat bocadillo and got one wrapped too for later. I liked this little town chuckle! On leaving I passed a house with corn dolls tied to two balconies. 'Must be fiesta or has been one' I thought but on calling over to a lady in the street as I took a photo was informed
"Oh no they are just to keep the pigeons off the balcony"!!! chuckle.
I went over the top of the pass and remember I soon followed a yellow marker that took a track to the left. There were a few more markers but there weren't many. I was not sure of my place on the map but I seemed to be heading in the right direction and should later cross a river.
Well I walked for a long time with mountains on both sides and was a bit worried as to whether I was still on the right track.
To my right I saw a farm but it had two large Pyrenean mountain dogs looking after the sheep in a field and they were loose to circle the house, I couldn't ask there so I went on. I stopped again a little while later as the dogs continued to bark in my direction and then I saw a man come out of the sheds but he was too far away by now to hear me. I was tired, I wasn't going back unless I had too. Deeper into the valley I went, it still seemed right, there were other valleys going off to the right in the distance but I saw no tracks heading their way. When I did came to a small track to my right I looked for arrows but found none. The main track had been recently bulldozed and gently turned left. So I followed that for a kilometre or so then on coming round a curve I saw a farmhouse up on the left and the track swinging around in that direction behind the hill it stood on. As I got nearer and rounded the bend I could see the track fizzled out by the house and went no further! A dog was barking its head off here too, damn I had spotted a flat place where I could have put up the tent if dogs had not been there. Just then I spotted a couple of men and some boys come out of the house. The dog was on a long rope tied to a tree so I thought I would go and ask where I had gone wrong. Another ugly beast full of mange now came across barking but the men told it to be quiet, and I was able to go over to them. "Is there a spot I could camp? I seem to have missed the Camino to Santiago" I asked. It turned out they were just leaving and this was their 'casa del campo' and I listened as they said the ladies like the town so they come here to work, maybe they should have said play! Chuckle. Seeing I looked so tired, one of the boys was sent to get me a beer, I dumped my pack and told my story. They were nice people and said that I was welcome to camp on the flat bit of ground if I wanted, but the idea of the dog barking all night put me off that idea! "You'll have to go back to the last junction," the boys' father said "it branches out through that valley way out over there" he said pointing. "It crosses the river about a kilometre from the junction. It's a nice spot and there would be a good place to camp." Thanking them for the hospitality and beer I gave the youngest a koala. I don't think he was sure about that! It might have been the only soft toy he had ever had chuckle - boys will be boys! Ok, feeling a bit refreshed I hefted up my pack and tugging my trolley waved goodbye set off back the way I had come. At the junction I found the lost yellow arrow painted on a piece of tin in the long grass, it had at one time been nailed to a nearby tree. No wonder I hadn't seen it. I placed it at the edge of the track hoping others might, and went down the other track and through a gate, another arrow!
Sure enough I shortly came to the river. I had food, water and tent and this side of it was a great camping spot but I would have to ford the river in the morning, it would be better if my feet were kept dry in the morning. I should be able to use some stones by the side of the ford.
I put up the tent to the side and took off my boots collected and placed a few more fairly big stones with the others to make the crossing easier hoping it didn't rain in the night and the water get deeper.
Then I stripped off of my long pants and washed in the rather cold river. I'd had sweat running down my back all day and I was having trouble with chafing underwear!
Always a good idea to carry antiseptic powder! chuckle! I then washed as best I could my socks and pants and hung them on a bush to dry. I dressed in clean ones and I found a rock, put it near my tent and put my sandals on the top and sat down to eat my sandwich in the weak sun. I was not feeling very well and not very hungry. It had been a hard day again and I had suffered unusual bouts of indigestion and wind all afternoon but I ate thinking maybe it was just that I needed food to build up my strength again. It looked as if it might rain later but I thought I was far enough away from the river should it storm. I rolled out my sleeping bag and crawled in leaving the tent side facing the river up for ventilation. I soon fell asleep but awoke several times in the night, once or twice it was raining but not hard but I knew my socks would not be dry in the morning!May the 9th
To Alcaracejos
I dressed in the tent and looked out at the weather, it was dry at the moment I should hurry and collect my things and take down the tent and dry it as best I could, and pack it away.
All packed and with the clean but wet socks on the outside of my pack I went to look at the river crossing.
I threw in a few more stones then carried over the trolley and its water bottles and came back for the rucksack without getting my boots wet! Well! they were on the rucksack, chuckle but that river water was cold to my poor feet!
Once on the other side again I sat and dried my feet and pulled on my boots, hefted up the rucksack and pulling the trolley in my left hand, set off up the hill! At the time I thought it must be because I was still tired after yesterday's long hike but I am sure not having much breakfast and having no coffee did not help me much! I was really struggling to get up that hill, which seemed never ending. I had to stop to put on my waterproof cape when a heavy shower came down. My belly was complaining each step, I was belching wind almost continuously and I felt quite ill by the time I did get to the top.
It had stopped raining but I saw little relief ahead as the track went on with hills and dales into the distance under a cloudy sky. Feeling worse as the time went on I really began to worry. I knew I had been over doing things, 'and now your paying for it' I thought! I was walking very slow and had little idea how far I had gone when, on coming to a wider track, I looked at the book and I decided I must be on the right one. I could see from here, for a while at least, it would be easier to pull a fully loaded trolley. I took off the rucksack and repacked it with the water and stuff and fitted it back onto the trolley and set off pulling it.My mobile buzzed and after a couple failed attempts, my B…. mobile decided to let me answer it! I heard Maisie's voice, I tried to not sound too worried but told her all was fine, and how nice the river camping had been and that I was hoping for a good day!
When I rang off I walked slowly down the gentle slope of the best gravel track I had been on in a long time. The trolley pulled ok downhill but I was now feeling all alone, cold and very sick and missing her terribly and wondering how I could possibly make Alcaracejos, that's approximately 30k with no possibility of even a coffee to sustain me. There were no other villages marked on the map or mentioned in the book. Sure a few old farmhouses might be out there and some ruins were mentioned, but from where I was, it looked all hills and scrub with this track leading to nowhere! There was another reason I had to reach Alcaracejos, I had arranged to meet a dear friend of mine there tomorrow afternoon!
I stopped for a moment and took a photo of the hill I had just come down where I had been when Maisie had phoned. I was just starting to set off again when a four-wheel drive came over the same hill. It stopped alongside me, there were two men inside the driver asked where I was going! I told them I was walking to Santiago Compostela but stated I would love a ride as I was feeling very sick. They immediately jumped out and stuffed my pack in the back and told me to get in the other side! Who says prayers aren't answered!We stopped after a few kilometres by a dilapidated small stone farmhouse where there stood another vehicle. The guy in the passenger's seat got out and said goodbye to both of us and we drove off again. Shortly afterwards my transport took to a tarmac track and then onto a main road, I think it was the N-502. Anyway in a short while we drove into the small town of Alcaracejos. Pulling over in the narrow street my saviour said he would stop here to let me out and just ahead on the right was a café where I could eat and they might have rooms or at least tell me where I might find lodgings. I got out and he quickly unloaded my bag and I thanked him as best I could and gave him my card so that he might follow my trip on the Internet if he felt inclined. I waved goodbye as he drove off, leaving me hoping he hadn't gone too far out of his way to bring me here. I stand amazed, I am here in Alcaracejos 30 kms further on in less than thirty minutes!!!! Tugging my pack, I walked down the street and into the bar.
After a coffee I asked about lodgings and was told they had a Hostel across the road and the proprietor took me across and opened up the building to show me the rooms. I was taken upstairs and down a long corridor and into a comfortable enough room with a balcony facing the street and café.
It had two firm single beds and a nice clean bathroom adjoining. I tried to get the price down but was assured 17e was the cheapest it could be!
I was still thinking as to what things cost last time I was in Spain and that was three years ago! A visit back to the café and I took it! Of course it was cheap but I guess I was hoping for something even cheaper if I could find it as I had so many days in front of me to pay for, before I got that flight home! He took my passport number and details and I paid up and went back and settled in and rested till about 3pm when I again crossed the road again to eat in the restaurant. I ate well and the food was nice and a glass of red cheered me up, but I was trying to decide how I was going to be able to carry on. I went back to my room, I came over ill again and knew it was the same as before, not the good food I had just eaten. I text my friend saying I felt ill and was told to ask for the Central de Salude! I thanked her but replied I would take her advice if things didn't get any better. I decided it would help if I stopped worrying about the trip and I decided I had to get some weight out of my pack, getting rid of the tent seemed the only option!
I went through my gear took out the tent, poles, pegs etc, the spirit cooker and all that went with it. I sorted through my clothes again, out came one long sleeve shirt and a T-shirt. I would estimate about three kilos.
I was to regret later sending both the last two as I now only had the one warm thermal T-shirt under shirt that I was wearing. Maybe I was still hoping that the Spanish summer would come in a day or two, as my last trip through Mérida had been so baking hot and I was heading in that direction!!
I was also forgetting the long sleeve one I happened to be wearing was many caminos old and at the end of its life! The shirt I posted was the best fitting one of the three I had, warmer and almost new!
I packed all into a strong plastic bag and tied it around with string. It was not a parcel I could post but I hoped I could get it put in a box or get it wrapped properly at an 'estancos' or the post office. I now went to bed and wondered what tomorrow would bring!
Note My sickness, whatever it was, was like having chronic indigestion with all the associated pains and wind, which escaped wherever it could and moving one leg in front of the other increased its likelihood of escaping!
May the 10th
Alcaracejos
On getting up I was determined the first and most important thing was to get the rucksack weight down. I repacked all again chuckle but it all stayed about the same! I thought it was a bit too early for the post office to be open, so next was for me to go out and find out if there was one! I crossed the road to the café Tic-Tac and took a street on that side near where I had been dropped off yesterday. In a square a few streets behind the café I found the town hall (ayuntamiento). There was and a lot of building work and a small office to the left of it, but this office looked like the post office or what was left of it. The door was heavily barred and all was locked but a small card said open at 8.30am and it wasn't 8am yet. I guessed a small town in this day and age would not need a big building so it could still be in use. Ok, that was easy I would come back later. I now carried on around the streets to find out if there was a chemist (Farmacia).
While I was feeling much better this morning I still thought I should try to get something to reduce my wind and tummy rumbles. It had quite scared me yesterday! I was unsuccessful finding the Farmacia but I found a bakers shop and bought a cake for breakfast and one for tomorrow when I left. I asked if there was a Farmacia
"Yes, the opposite side of the street a bit further down." I was told.
I walked by it twice without seeing it until I asked a lady road sweeper! I was of course almost standing outside it! Ok, the sign was high up chuckle, and the solid blue door closed! Pinned on the door was the opening time, I needed to come back here too! I had plenty of time, Mari had text to meet at 2.30pm. I wasn’t sure if the butterflies in my stomach were from my wind troubles or excitement at seeing her after such a long time. Just then the door opened and a rather attractive young lady smiled at me while she obviously opened the shop.
Now I have more problems, my poor Spanish has many words, but few verbs and it runs into trouble when attempting to describe belly pains and wind problems to a charming young lady even if she is wearing a white coat! Anyway, a little embarrassed, I struggle on and she is about to hand me the prescription when she asked,
"Are you taking any medication?"
As I have half a kilo of the damn things in my pack I say
"Yes"
"What are they?"
I'm expected to know some six or seven medications in Spanish!
I know I have a list somewhere on me but I couldn’t find it, but I know there's another list in my rucksack back at the Hostel. I apologise for wasting her time and say I will return shortly with a list!
She smiles, puts me at ease and serves another customer that has been waiting.
I walk back to the Hostel, find the list and the one I had on me! I cross the road and get a badly needed coffee!
At almost half past eight I start again heading for the post office. It wasn't open but a guy behind the glass door of the ayuntamiento said any moment pointing at his watch. Another customer arrived, looked at the time on the door, then at her watch and left. Before long I saw movement inside, it looks as if I am not wasting my time and five minutes later the door was open. Great, I grasp my parcel, enter and go to the glass screen and explain I want to send this package to Madrid.
"Not like that" the man said firmly "it must be wrapped properly!"
"I realise that, could you tell me where I could get it done, an Estanco maybe?
I find the busy lady on his left has now taken me over!
"Well we have some boxes but they might be rather large" she say "if you could fit it together?" The man was sent to fish out the flat pack boxes and I chose the smallest that in this form looked much too big, but I think I could cut it to fit with my penknife. A roll of sticky tape appears and I had a big felt tip pen with me! I retire to the rear and start unfolding the box!
Amazingly it fits my parcel perfectly, I tape it together and fill in the address labels, get out my wallet and go back to the lady. All's fine, I needed my passport of course but that I had on me. On go the stamps, "hooray" my heavy weight is on its way! It had hardly occurred to me that now I had no shelter should I not be able to reach the next albergue! For example I would have been stumped just yesterday without it! At this moment all I thought of was, with less weight I shall be able to cope and go on!
Pills next, I went round the corner and found my white coated young lady and showed her my list of pills.
I explain I am hoping to walk to Santiago de Compostela but this wind problem of mine is giving me problems. I think she was impressed and also felt that with this list of pills it was a wonder I should attempt to walk to the corner shop!
I go back to my room and take a new pill! I have to take them 3 times a day and know I will be sure to forget some. I have enough of a problem now, I have one lot that I take in the evening and morning and to do that I had to set an alarm on my phone! 'OK I'm supposed to take this new pill at meal times!' Oh dear! I remember Mari said she will come for lunch. Where am I going to take her?!'
The Tic-Tac restaurant across the road is ok but I would like something a little nicer if there is a place in town.
I go out again and look around the main street. Then I find a lady on a side street and ask her, explaining I have a Spanish friend coming to see me and wanted a nice place to take her to lunch.
"There is one on the main road a bit further down. It's very nice I'm sure it will please her' she said with a glint in her eye.
I thank her and go and look. There was a canvas covered area on the pavement outside but it was defiantly too cold to eat there today. The barman chatted to me as I looked in and I found out what time they serve lunch. He was nice and the place was busy with all Spanish people and it looked pleasant, although I noticed the restaurant was actually upstairs. I said I'd be back later for lunch with a friend and returned to my room.
I knew I should relax and rest and I tried but I was excited. Mari was bringing her two daughters and it would be lovely to see Mari and Paz, her oldest daughter, again after so long, Both are charming, Paz is a very beautiful girl in her early twenties that would turn any young man's head!
At the time we met, we had all been in an albergue on the way to Compostela. I was walking with Mark, an English lad. I chose a bunk the opposite side of the room to Mari, Paz and Marta a niece I think, who was walking with them. Their Camino had only started that day I believe. It was the time to compare blisters chuckle. I tried to help by telling them things I had found helpful on my long walk from Cordoba, Seville and up the Vía del Plata. That year I had suffered badly with them!
I remember none of us slept much that night, as an automatic light switched on and off every time someone went to the toilet or even moved. Some peregrinos left at 4 am too! I think because they could not sleep!
We met again on the track several times and became friends and still are over the Internet today.
I had never met little Paula but had seen photos of the smiling young girl.
I went back down to the bar and had another coffee. I wasn't sure where we would meet but I'd text the Tic-Tac café. I now wondered about that, suddenly it occurred to me, maybe it wasn't quite the right thing to do in Spain, to meet in a crowded bar! I went to the door and into the street just as they drove up and parked. Wonderful, timed to the second I thought, I went across and as they got out I could see they were as overjoyed as I was to meet again. Little Paula was a mass of smiles too and much taller than I imagined.
Paz said she knew the town and could recommend of a place to eat if that was OK with me. It turned out to be the place I had been recommended!
Mari ordered and recommended that I to try stew on the menu, as she knew I loved to try different Spanish foods as we have been swapping recipes over the Internet at times. I answered a barrage of questions as to how my camino had gone so far. I tried to be honest and Mari said,"There I told you, didn’t I, I said it would be a very hard camino!"
I chuckled,
"The problem is me getting older, it's been cold and wet, and there are no markers where you need them! I am 70 you know!"
Paz didn't know, and flattered me by saying,
"You don’t look it."
From such a pretty lady too, chuckle.
My mobile rang just as we were finishing eating, it was great to hear Maisie. I told her I was feeling much better and I knew she might like to speak to Mari and Paz on the phone. I passed the phone to Paz first, as I know she speaks good English, probably better than Maisie's Spanish these days. Then over to Mari who assured Maisie I hadn't drunk too much wine while looking at an almost dry bottle of fine red wine, that she had hardly touched, as she was the driver!
The lovely meal over we left the restaurant and I was now invited to go with them and see the village where Paz worked, as Alcaracejos was not the prettiest of towns but Dos Torres, was worth a visit.
We climbed into the car and away we went, and were shortly parking the car in the village of Dos Torres.
Here I was taken down the narrow streets and into the main square.
There had been a fiesta and a bullring had been set up using old carts for the people stands, now they were all around the square waiting to be collected.
We played about taking snap shots then went in a bar for a wine and one orange for my favourite young girl with the smile, Paula.
Sadly all good things have to come to an end and we had to go back and say our goodbyes. My dear friends said they would try one day to come and see my family and me in Australia. I gave three little koalas and Mari surprised me when she said
"We have a present for you too!"
I was presented with enough packs of chorizo and Spanish ham to last a Peregrino till he got to Santiago chuckle! My rucksack weight was already rising but I was very touched by their thoughtful present. A Peregrino needs to eat!
I waved goodbye and watched them go, wishing it could have been longer but that's life I guess. I do hope that we will meet again sometime. Until then we have text and the use of the Internet.
I prepared my stuff ready to leave in the morning and then, to use some time up, I walked the street to find where the first arrows were for my start tomorrow. I didn't have to go far, and found it Ok. There was a cold breeze now so I returned!
I wandered down to the Hostel foyer later, before turning in for the night, to take a look at the street. It was now wet in the pouring rain! The weather was back to normal I thought, but I felt better, things had gone well today. I'd had a lovely time! Standing in the doorway, the lights looked so pretty in the rain, I would set off tomorrow at 7am whatever!
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